New to woodworking- Help with making a bookshelf - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default New to woodworking- Help with making a bookshelf

Good afternoon from Atlanta. Just started on a project and would like to get some advise. I bought some white pine 1x10 sides and shelves and 1x12 top which I hope to put a routered edge on. I have sanded it down with a 400 grit sandpaper on a 1/4 sheet sander and am pleased with the finish. Is there something I should do before I put the pre-stain on? It still has some dust even though I've brushed and brushed it off. Also, do you sand the seal or stain?

I read on another thread where someone suggested using a 1x3 of poplar to make some kind of jig before I start using my router. Can anyone elaborate on this or point me to another post? I bought it with a little fancier face and just plan on zipping the three edges of the top shelf. . (1" reveal on sides and front, flush with the back.) I then bought some Luan door skin to make a back surface.

I am just wingining it as I go guys. Any suggestions or comments would be great. BTW- I bought a $99 Ryobi router from home depot.

Thanks,

Tom
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 05:19 PM
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Ah... the innocence of the question, "I just want to do one small thing.." :-)
Before staining I would suggest using a wood conditioner, especially on pine. You can get it at home depot and it helps the stain be absorbed more evenly.
Perhaps you should us a vacuum on the wood to help get rid of the dust.
One big question I have is: Is this a single piece of 1X12 and 1X10? You will need to rip and laminate wood this wide or it will warp. You can buy pine shelving from HD that has already had this done as well.
OK, so now you are ready for the pretty routered edge... I suspect the 1X3 poplar that was mentioned is to tape to the one side of the router so it isn't too tippy while you are routering the sides of your shelf.

Try everything on a test piece first!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crynoutloud
Good afternoon from Atlanta. Just started on a project and would like to get some advise. I bought some white pine 1x10 sides and shelves and 1x12 top which I hope to put a routered edge on. I have sanded it down with a 400 grit sandpaper on a 1/4 sheet sander and am pleased with the finish. Is there something I should do before I put the pre-stain on? It still has some dust even though I've brushed and brushed it off. Also, do you sand the seal or stain?

I read on another thread where someone suggested using a 1x3 of poplar to make some kind of jig before I start using my router. Can anyone elaborate on this or point me to another post? I bought it with a little fancier face and just plan on zipping the three edges of the top shelf. . (1" reveal on sides and front, flush with the back.) I then bought some Luan door skin to make a back surface.

I am just wingining it as I go guys. Any suggestions or comments would be great. BTW- I bought a $99 Ryobi router from home depot.

Thanks,

Tom
Howdy Tom and a big welcome to the Router Forum. I too am in the Atlanta area (Hiram).

To answer your first question, I have never bothered sealing wood before I apply stain and mine always comes out perfect. I would simply apply the stain of your choice and let it dry good before applying the finish coats. I normally sand between coats on the finish product.

As far as a jig, you should not really need one to just round your edges. Using a round over bit with the little wheel on the bottom should keep you in line with your shelf surface. Just be sure to keep your router base level on the wood surface and not let it tilt while rounding.

The Ryobi is a good starter router and you should do fine with what you are trying to do with your project. As you get into more complex cuts then you may need jigs and guides, but from the way I read your post you should not need this at this time. After you advance to other complexities, come back and yell for additional assistance and the fine folks here will jump at the chance to give you a hand.

Cheers
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 10:53 PM
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Hi Tom
Always try out the router bit setup on some scrap wood that is the same thickness. This may seem obvious, but some people don't think of it and ruin the good piece!
I ALWAYS do samples, just in case.

~Julie~
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Default Thanks!

Thanks for the help!!! In answer to your question the stock I purchased was not laminated and yes I was concerned about the warping but I have had in my shop for a month and have not seen any changes. I have had problems with warping before and didnt know if it was related to the grain or cut of the board. These dont appear to be changing. We usually have the Air or heat on so I dont think it will see much moisture in my duaghters bedroom.

Comments?

thanks,

Tom- BTW I'm in snellville to my fellow Georgian
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 10:09 AM
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First wipe the wood with mineral spirits to remove the dust, use paper towels and use as many as necessary to remove all the dust,dirt,etc.This will also highlight any glue (if any used) not completely removed. Pine like cherry,maple,poplar et.al. doesn't take stain well,it tends to get blotchy. If you want info on ways to finish pine,facts not advertising hype,write again after the wood is cleaned.

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jerry
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 11:09 AM
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I believe all wood this wide and thin will warp. It basically will over time want to be as round as the tree it came from. You will need to rip the wood into 3 inch pieces, joint the edges then flip every second piece so the grain runs opposite to the piece beside it, then glue and clamp, then sand, and sand and sand...
Or just buy the pre-glued pieces until you get all the wood working equipment to do it yourself.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymayfield
First wipe the wood with mineral spirits to remove the dust, use paper towels and use as many as necessary to remove all the dust,dirt,etc.This will also highlight any glue (if any used) not completely removed. Pine like cherry,maple,poplar et.al. doesn't take stain well,it tends to get blotchy. If you want info on ways to finish pine,facts not advertising hype,write again after the wood is cleaned.

regards
jerry
OK Jerry spill the beans (stain) on ways to finish pine..... minus the advertising hype..... We all want to know!

Ed
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 12:44 PM
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10" and 12" pine WILL warp and you will be disappointed when you see cracks and gaps in your work. Wood is taking on and giving off moisture on a regular basis. Your wood that warped before is simple proof. Part of the fun of woodworking is ripping apart wood and gluing it back together, right guys?

~Julie~
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 12:47 PM
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ED - Pioneers used lots of things, but I'm not sure they ever spilled beans to stain wood?

~Julie~
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