I read this thread last night and it got me wondering about my TS, I have a 3hp Delta 10" LHT Arbor saw. I hear a slight ring as material passes the end of the blade. Knowing this means that either the blade, the fence or both are "OOP", (out of Parallel).
I never relied on the saws 90° and 45° gauge always using machinist and combo squares for absolutes. I haven't checked anything since I put it all together 6 yrs ago. I don't go out of my way to baby my tools, but I don't mistreat them either, they're important to my work. So I decided to pull out the dial indicator and do some snooping. I wonder if they make a dial indicator to run on a T track?
Ignorance Is Bliss! I almost swallowed my tongue at 1st, over .006 at infeed, so I pulled the stabilizer off and tested again, well over .003 so I pulled the blade and put a new Tenru in. Much better .002. I wonder if the stabilizer can warp a thin cerf blade?
I slid it to the outfeed end of the blade and started out at .001. Not perfect but not too bad and not worth trying to make it worse.
Then I went to check the fence, (Biesemeyer) from the track, infeed -0- outfeed .010 Oy Gevalt! I then measured from the rail to the tabletop and noted an 1/8" difference. I ripped 2 blocks at 3/4" loosened the rail plopped them in, retightened and rechecked. Still .010 out but reversed. Removed one block ripped it down to 11/16" now out .001. Loosened it up one more time, slid paper beside the block, retightened and measured at -0-.
I also learned that the fence has a whoops in it. About 20" through the middle of the fence is curved nearly .002 away from the blade. I can easily slide a sheet of paper between the straight edge and at the worst, at the center of the blade 2 sheets. Maybe I can slide some paper between the fence tube and fence
Never bite the hand that looks dirty!
The more you know the more you're worth