New Kreg Clamp Base - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-07-2017, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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@MT Stringer

I'm really liking the MFT top the more that I use it. In an effort to clean up the shop (and because the 40+ year old motor was starting to make some funny noises), I had gotten rid of my radial arm saw (only ever used for cross-cuts so never had a problem with it going out of square) and regretted it almost as soon as I did. The top and track saw has more than replaced it; the 24"+ cross cut capacity is quite a bit more than the RAS. And, with the TSO square on the track and some 2x4 sleepers, I can get about as much as my arm can reach, saving me from setting up the cutting grid just to make a couple of cuts.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-07-2017, 10:48 PM
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After watching that video I realized I can make my own table top. Dog holes, dado for T Track and shallow dadoes for the grip tape all cut using the same 1/4 inch end mill on my CNC. I will have to keep that in mind. I like my tables as is so I guess I could remount them on the CNC and let it cut the dadoes.

Even the holes for the "feet" could be drilled. Some day when I get bored...mdf is pretty cheap. However, my cutting area is about 22 x 35 so I could rotate the board and just cut everything on one end and leave the rest solid...or design the files so I can swap it end for end...or use the tiling feature to cut the entire length. Lots of possibilities. I think I have some T Track that is about 24 inches long so I wouldn't even have to buy any.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-08-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Mr. Stanton seems to be pushing the design as a "portable" top, either taking it to a job site or for the homeowner to set up on the kitchen table when he needs somewhere to work. He does note that the top is reversible - the feet can be installed in either face - so that the plain face can be used for sawing and "heavy" work. For use as a fixed top - e.g. modifying an existing top by adding the features or making a new top to attach to a bench - I can see the anti-slip inserts becoming easily damaged. I've had one of those "router mats" - a rubberized mat with either a waffle-like surface or an open mesh - for years and it works very well as a non-sip surface, plus it has the advantage of being easily rolled up and stored away from damage when not needed. I do like the concept of continuing the dog holes onto the apron, and the various functions available with them there.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-08-2017, 12:13 PM
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I like your idea of using a router mat. Probably makes more sense since it can be removed and stored away. Maybe after Christmas I will look for one.

I like Mr Stanton's videos. Like someone posted, he should be an instructor if he isn't already.

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 06:38 AM
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Default Another Idea....

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Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Kreg recently introduced a base for mounting their Bench Clamps in dog holes on your bench top. The bases are attached with a 1/2" bolt through the top, but the instructions say not to tighten the locking knob so that the base/clamp assembly could swivel. This makes sense except I wasn't too happy with the idea that the bolt was loose, particularly since it appears that there needs to be a fair amount of clearance or the friction against the bottom of the bench top tends to tighten the knob as the assembly swivels. I bought some 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID nylon bushings and fitted them over the bolt and that seems to solve the looseness problem - the holes in my top are 20 mm so there's about 1/32" clearance - but the knob still tends to tighten on the surface when you swivel so you have to reach under and loosen it. The bushings are 3/8" long, and the two are just slightly thinner than the top, I'm going to try adding a thin flat washer (thinking maybe I can punch a couple out of some scrap coil stock) right under the base so that the bushing just sticks out past the surface - hopefully this will let the assembly swivel easily without self-tightening.

So far, I like the bases - nice solid aluminum castings - and they give me a way to hold down to the top using my existing Bench Clamps.
Great writeup and gave me some ideas.
Here is another alternative. See what you guys think.
I took the Bench Dog Cookies T-track Connectors and added it to my Kreg Jig.
I am trying to think of better way to connect it but it still works great. Might add a washer at the end.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Great writeup and gave me some ideas.
Here is another alternative. See what you guys think.
I took the Bench Dog Cookies T-track Connectors and added it to my Kreg Jig.
I am trying to think of better way to connect it but it still works great. Might add a washer at the end.
That's an interesting idea. I do have a question though - are the connectors clamped to the top somehow or do they just drop through the dog holes and "cock" when the clamp is locked down? May not be a good idea on an MFT style top where the holes are used as locators and it would be a problem if they became oversize/eggy form the clamp use. I bought the Kreg bases on a special deal when they first came out, and really like the concept. I have some similar clamps - another brand but functionally identical - but am thinking that I could make a version of my own for way less money.

Sticking with the 3/4" dowel concept (because I always seem to have some pieces lying around):

- take a piece of scrap 1/2" BB and counterbore a 3/4" hole partly through. The footprint of the bare clamp is a little on the small side (in my opinion) and this spreads the load over a larger area.
- cut a piece of 3/4" dowel to the appropriate length, glue it into the plywood and drill the 5/16" hole (I believe that the tapped hole in the foot of the clamp is 5/16"NC) through both parts.
- take a 5/16" knob with male stud and install through the mount and into the clamp from under the top. I don't know if the male knobs come with the stud length needed, but I always buy female knobs and a length of all-thread and make my own - cuts down on inventory and I can make the stud length what I need - red Loctite fixes the stud in the knob, and I've never had a problem with one coming loose.

With this idea, or something similar, you can make your own bases using scrap pieces - cost would probably be a couple dollars for the knob.

I used the Kreg clamps the other day and found that the clamps swiveling was a distraction as I was having to turn them slightly each time to get them lined up where I needed so wound up making a couple of shorter dowel sleeves so that the knob fixed the clamp in place - I guess having both versions lets me use whichever is appropriate.
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