New Kreg Clamp Base - Router Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default New Kreg Clamp Base

Kreg recently introduced a base for mounting their Bench Clamps in dog holes on your bench top. The bases are attached with a 1/2" bolt through the top, but the instructions say not to tighten the locking knob so that the base/clamp assembly could swivel. This makes sense except I wasn't too happy with the idea that the bolt was loose, particularly since it appears that there needs to be a fair amount of clearance or the friction against the bottom of the bench top tends to tighten the knob as the assembly swivels. I bought some 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID nylon bushings and fitted them over the bolt and that seems to solve the looseness problem - the holes in my top are 20 mm so there's about 1/32" clearance - but the knob still tends to tighten on the surface when you swivel so you have to reach under and loosen it. The bushings are 3/8" long, and the two are just slightly thinner than the top, I'm going to try adding a thin flat washer (thinking maybe I can punch a couple out of some scrap coil stock) right under the base so that the bushing just sticks out past the surface - hopefully this will let the assembly swivel easily without self-tightening.

So far, I like the bases - nice solid aluminum castings - and they give me a way to hold down to the top using my existing Bench Clamps.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 06:34 PM
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Good review Tom. Thank you!
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 06:42 PM
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An elastic stop nut ( nut with a nylon insert) instead of their nut wouldn't be as easy to reach under and tighten/loosen, but it would stay in place on the threads preventing it from tightening or loosening when the pad is rotated. You could also modify their nut by drilling and threading a sideways hole in it and then using a nylon ended set screw, tightened enough to interfere with the 1/2" bolt to keep it and their nut from tightening or loosening. Now, why didn't they think of all this.

Charley
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 08:03 PM
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Thanks Tom, I haven't seen those hold downs made by Kreg. A question about your table. Did you make it or is store bought? I have been wanting a table with dog holes.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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@hawkeye10

Don,

It's a Festool MFT that I bought. I toyed with the idea of picking up the Lee Valley Parf Guide set-up and making my own but it really didn't make sense right now, maybe a little further down the road after I've played with it a little and decided how I want to "improve" it. I use it with the Parf Dogs for cutting panels after I rip them to width on my cutting table - the photo shows checking square with the fence located by RipDog Fence Dogs and the track by Parf Dogs (I was cutting multiple pieces and needed the fence so I could use the flip stop). The X & Y holes check dead on at 90 to each other so it's just a matter of dropping the part on the table, butting it up to the stops and lining the track up with the mark. The MFT is good for what it does but, IMO, a little shaky for hard work as a workbench - but then I have my assembly table and just need to drill some dog holes in it. I'll only be using the dog holes for clamping, so laying the holes out with a straightedge and square will be good enough.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
An elastic stop nut ( nut with a nylon insert) instead of their nut wouldn't be as easy to reach under and tighten/loosen, but it would stay in place on the threads preventing it from tightening or loosening when the pad is rotated. You could also modify their nut by drilling and threading a sideways hole in it and then using a nylon ended set screw, tightened enough to interfere with the 1/2" bolt to keep it and their nut from tightening or loosening. Now, why didn't they think of all this.

Charley
The clamp isn't going to be fixed in the top, and will be removed when I'm cutting something, so needs to be relatively easy to move - crawling under the top to loosen or tighten a setscrew isn't going to do it for me. I think adding a couple of thin aluminum washers under the clamp, before the nylon bushings, seems like the cleanest way to go. If I wind up with 1/64" or so projection of the end of the bushing below the underside of the top, the knob won't tighten on the work top as the clamp spins but the whole assembly won't be sloppy which is what I'm looking for. The ID of the bushings are a friction fit on the body of the bolt so I won't have to worry about them falling off - although I maybe need to drill a 3/4" test hole and check the fit of the OD of the bushings, then decide what size dog holes I wind up putting in the other top.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 01:51 PM
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No Tom, you don't understand. The nylon tipped set screw only needs to be tight enough to keep the Kreg knob from turning on the threads. Just a little added friction so the knob doesn't tighten or loosen on it's own. The Kreg knob could be used exactly as originally intended, but would not tighten or loosen on it's own when the parts above the table were moved. Once the set screw creates enough friction to keep the knob from tightening or loosening, no further adjustment of the set screw should be necessary, but could again be adjusted if the Kreg knob ever begins to slip on it's threads again.It would not need to be adjusted so tight that you couldn't unscrew the Kreg knob, just enough to keep it from turning on it's own.

Charley
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
No Tom, you don't understand. The nylon tipped set screw only needs to be tight enough to keep the Kreg knob from turning on the threads. Just a little added friction so the knob doesn't tighten or loosen on it's own. The Kreg knob could be used exactly as originally intended, but would not tighten or loosen on it's own when the parts above the table were moved. Once the set screw creates enough friction to keep the knob from tightening or loosening, no further adjustment of the set screw should be necessary, but could again be adjusted if the Kreg knob ever begins to slip on it's threads again.It would not need to be adjusted so tight that you couldn't unscrew the Kreg knob, just enough to keep it from turning on it's own.

Charley
Gotcha. So maybe a dab of VibraTite on the bolt threads would do the same thing?
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 02:48 PM
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I have considered one of these. I have one of the new style clamps (3 inch) so a longer one should work well. I like the idea of the nylon insert. I need to look for one.

I have a few holes that one of these should fit in nicely.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-17-2017, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well, with one thing and another (including a call from my wife who had lost her keys at Walmart - long story), all I got done was working on the Kreg clamps - although my buddy in from NC stopped by to catch up on the news and show me his new Corvette, nice car. I went with the idea of making some aluminum shims to put under the nylon bushings, turned out that 5 of them was enough to give me almost 1/64" stick-out. That solved the problem, the plastic knob spins down on the end of the bushing without clamping on the top and still lets the clamp spin - and no rocking in the hole. I like the set-up, now I have to drill some dog holes in the other top.
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