Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Default Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert

I had some time in the shop and decided to re-make my zero clearance inserts. I made them for my Dewalt Contractors saw. I have made them in the past from plywood, and mdf. I don't like plywood (too much drag). This time I tried some left over 3/8" laminate flooring on one and also 1/2" mdf on the other. I thought that using the bottom side of the laminate as a top surface was a good idea because it has a finish of hard plastic and very smooth. The laminate being 3/8" had to be shimmed to end up the right thickness(1/2") to fit into the opening and rest on the machined casting. I did this by dadoing the bottom side, then gluing maple pegs to raise it even with the top. I decided to make another from 1/2" mdf as a spare. It got me thinking about the maple pegs I glued with titebondII. I suppose the pegs are there to keep the insert from being ejected back at the user in case the blade somehow caught it on the far side of the insert. The operator's end is held down by a cam. It got me wondering about other brands of saws...How is yours fastened? I included detailed photos showing my inserts. I use one for thin kerf, and when it gets worn, I then use it for a full width (1/8") blade so I get more life from the insert. I also mark a line so I know at what point to measure the height from.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 08:04 PM
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The Unisaw is very similar.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 08:23 PM
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Thinking about the leveling of thin stock. On my saw there are four threaded inserts in the four corners of the insert. The insert is pretty much split to the back of the blade opening, and all you have to do is use a tiny allen wrench and raise or lower it. I think you might consider a simple to install threaded insert to flatten the insert to the table. I've thought many times of using flooring for an insert, just haven't done it.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 08:24 PM
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nice job...
try UHMW... sold as cutting boards at the Dollar Store...

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 06:56 AM
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Fastened? Gravity, I guess. I have a 1990 PM66 and the insert just sets in place. It has 4 leveling screws like Tom mentioned, but other than a snug fit no mechanical fastener holds it down.

David
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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I find using a zero clearance insert greatly reduces chipping, especially on plywood. I also clean any pitch with trend blade cleaner often, and find after cleaning the blade, it cuts like a new blade.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 07:21 AM
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I have one but have never used it. It's pretty rare for me to cut plywood or pine or anything like that that will muck up my blade. I mostly cut Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Hickory, Beech, etc. The blade stays clean and no chipping.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 08:38 AM
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I like them and wish I could make some !

I have a King table saw and the plate is steel and only about 1/8''+/-. Even the UHMW wouldn't be solid enough to go that thin. I was able to buy a wide opening plate for when I use my Dado blades. I guess I could get some plates laser cut from steel but how would I get the zero clearance to be precise ? I would need one for every different blade. For now I sometimes use a sacrificial sheet of hard board on the table for it is thin enough for most cuts.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
...How is yours fastened?...
Mine has a flathead screw in the front. I like yours better but I guess a screw hole is easier to make.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danman1957 View Post
I like them and wish I could make some !

I have a King table saw and the plate is steel and only about 1/8''+/-. Even the UHMW wouldn't be solid enough to go that thin. I was able to buy a wide opening plate for when I use my Dado blades. I guess I could get some plates laser cut from steel but how would I get the zero clearance to be precise ? I would need one for every different blade. For now I sometimes use a sacrificial sheet of hard board on the table for it is thin enough for most cuts.
I have hsd success using 1/2' and rabeting the edge down to 1/8" on saws you mentioned.
Herb
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