Gluing box joints - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Default Gluing box joints

I'm making boxes on my router table. Is there a way to glue the box joints without getting glue all over when I put the joints together?

Gary
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 05:00 PM
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Hi Gary,

See the following link: http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...ue-joints.html

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 05:01 PM
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Hi Gary,

I usually put blue masking tape along the inside edge of the joint prior to gluing and assembly. This keeps the glue from running on the inside of the box which is the area of concern. I don't worry about the outside as it sands off easily with the belt sander in the final stages prior to finishing.

Hope this helps
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 05:35 PM
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You can eliminate much of the clean up by limiting the amount of glue applied and clamping pressure.

I use an acid brush to paint the glue on, just enough to wet both sides.
I keep a bowl of warm water and an old face cloth to wipe up excess as I clamp. Also I try to clamp tight enough for minimum squeeze out. If I succeed I leave the glue to bead and then hit it with a scraper after it dries

The amount of glue I apply depends on the type of glue and wood, the more porous the wood the more it'll absorb into the fibers. The more viscous the glue the less it'll absorb.

My problem with tape is if it sits a bit too long the tape ends up shredding as I remove it causing more work than it's worth.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2009, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'm going to try the tape method and the vingar method. When I get the boxes done I'll post them on the forum.
By the way, what's an acid brush?


Gary

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2009, 01:41 PM
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I’m with Ronald, to me that’s the best method

Also after 1 hour or so I will go back and wipe off any excess glue.

BTW acid brushes are the metal cheep bruches used by plumbers / welders. About 6” long with an approx. ¼” diameter metal handle. Very useful for a variety of jobs

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2009, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawolf21 View Post
Thanks guys. I'm going to try the tape method and the vingar method. When I get the boxes done I'll post them on the forum.
By the way, what's an acid brush? Gary
This is an acid brush...

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...rush&Submit=Go

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2009, 02:07 PM
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Hi Nicolas

Too late,,,in a hour the glue has sealed the wood,, try this quick test, put some glue on a board,,,wipe off what you can with a clean rag. come back to it in a hour or so,,and put some stain/finish on it , and you will see the glue has seal the wood..

Now do it one more time the same way, but this time use the 50/50 way, come back to the board in a hour or so,, and if you did it right the stain/finish will go on and you will not see any glue marks..

By the way,, pickup one or two Good paint brushes ,the ones that are about 12 " ti 14" long or so and come down to a nice fine flat tip ( oil painting brushes ) pop off the cap of a spray can of paint,put some BOTTLE water into the cap, after you use the brush clean it out right away in the water and wipe it off with some paper towels , I made a little slip on brush holder that just slips on to the paint cap so I can leave the brush in the water until I don't with the glue I used welding rod for the brush holder...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolias View Post
I’m with Ronald, to me that’s the best method

Also after 1 hour or so I will go back and wipe off any excess glue.

BTW acid brushes are the metal cheep bruches used by plumbers / welders. About 6” long with an approx. ¼” diameter metal handle. Very useful for a variety of jobs

Nicolas



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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-14-2009, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Oh you mean those cheap glue brushes? If that's them, I have those.

Gary
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