This is called drift, and it can vary with each new blade. There are a variety of ways to handle it, but it starts with the way you set up the blade to the way it tracks on the tire, to not setting the bottom guides properly.
Start by watching the attached video. Alex Snodgrass shows how to properly set up the saw, and if you follow his method, you'll find much of the problem just goes away. Note that you will get recommendations to check and maybe even reset the wheels so they are co-planer. But Mr. Snodgrass says don't do it. The jigs the factory uses to set up the bottom wheel so it is perfectly parallel with the top wheel is heavy duty, milled steel, and YOU or I are unlikely to ever set it as well as it was in the factory. I have never touched the bottom wheel on any of the four bandsaws I've owned. It has NEVER been the problem.
But having the blade ride centered just behind the gullets between teeth makes a huge difference, as well as learning to set the blade tension properly. There are other factors that come into play, such as making sure the blade guides are set properly for the type of guides you have. Older guides and Carter style bearing type guides are not supposed to touch the blade, some newer styles use blocks that do contact the blade. There are guides above and below the table, and both need to be set properly, if one is off, it can deflect the blade. Normally the bearing behind the blade should not be in constant contact with the blade, except when you are pressing the work into the blade. If the back guide is actually touching the blade, it can deflect the blade and you get drift.
Start by watching the video a couple of times. Snodgrass is pretty much the acknowledged expert on band saw setup. Hope this helps.
Cheap blades are more likely to give you problems. I also use a stone (on a stick) to round over the back edge of all my blades, which removes any rough spots and makes blades run smoother. Don't overdo this, just a light treatment does the trick.
Wider blades run a bit better than narrow ones, high end blades are more expensive, but also generally run better. Might be the welds are better.
One more thing to check is to use a block of wood to check whether the table is 90 to the blade. You can check this with a transparent protracter, but making one cut with a wood block, then flipping it upside down, checking to see if the blade still fits in that slot. Many tables are adjustable and a good whack can throw them off.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.