Truing an edge of an aluminum bar - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Default Truing an edge of an aluminum bar

I need to true the edges of a 36" long x 1/2" thick x 1-1/2" wide 6061 Al bar. Before I find a machine shop, or someone that has a mill, can I safely take off no more than .002-.003 using my table saw saw with a non-ferrous blade? One side has a bow the other a cup, If so, what safety precautions do I need to take aside from the normal - full face shield, long sleeves, feather board, push stick, blade guard. Additionally my saw (Grizzly G0833P w/2HP) has anti-kickback pawls and a spreader. If not recommended, then I guess it's off to the machine shop. Thanks for your suggestions.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 07:44 PM
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use your router...
https://www.toolstoday.com/t-Aluminu...luminum%20bits

.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Stick, in reading the pdf file, I have those clamps but would need to screw down the bar to a substrate in order to get the clamp on it and keep it from moving. The bar is only 1-1/2" wide so I don't know if the clamps would be functional in this case. Also, those cutters do not have a bearing on them. Thanks for the assist.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 09:40 PM
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I have cut 1/4" T-6 aluminum on a table saw W/ my 80t X10" blade and also did a finish cut on a piece on the router table. I sure makes a mess of the shop with the aluminum shavings.
With a bowed piece like you you describe, you are going to have to clamp it to a straight edge to hold it while you cut it straight.

Also the type and temper of the aluminum has a whole lot to do with the machine ability. Type SO for example machines very poorly and will melt and weld itself to the cutter. An aircraft grade of t-6 is what I prefer. Some Aluminum requires stick wax or a solution of oil and water emulsified to offer coolant for machining. Band saws have to have metal cutting blades and they tend to plug up

Best do some research and learn about how to cut it, before you do it. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=machining+...b=v80-5&ia=web

Before you ruin a tool or hurt yourself.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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That's my thinking Herb. Think I'm going to find a machine shop or someone with a mill to do this for me..
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 11:10 PM
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 01:53 AM
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It'd probably be less expensive to simply but a new piece of stock. Isn't the Architectural extrusion stuff dead accurate?
Speedy Metals Information for 6061 Extruded Aluminum Bar
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBG65 View Post
Stick, in reading the pdf file, I have those clamps but would need to screw down the bar to a substrate in order to get the clamp on it and keep it from moving. The bar is only 1-1/2" wide so I don't know if the clamps would be functional in this case. Also, those cutters do not have a bearing on them. Thanks for the assist.
clamp the aluminum in the guide and use a collet or top bearing carbide trim bit...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 09:18 AM
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Whilst I have the greatest of respect for my friend Stick, and routing is my thing, I would not rout or use the table saw for such a long length of Aluminium, rather, I would use my compound mitre saw where the piece can be securely clamped using the built in clamp and preferably use an Aluminium cutting blade but a standard 80 tooth blade has always worked for me.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 11:06 AM
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I'd price and buy a dead flat, straight edge. A slight slip or glitch will pretty much ruin your shop made effort. Alternatively, I'd go with the machine shop, but I bet it will cost as much or more than a commercially made straightedge.
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