10" blade selection?? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Default 10" blade selection??

I just bought a new 10" table saw. In my old Delta saw I used whatever was on sale at the time. I figure new saw-might as well have good blades :-) I can no longer blame chipping/burning on a bad saw-right?
So today I went to Sears/local hardware store/Home Depot to check out the selection of blades for my saw.
My saw has a rating of 5000 rpm-5/8" arbor
I have seen a huge variety in blades available and I am asking the experts here for advice on making a good choice. I do not want to spend major $ on a blade unless it is will last me 10x longer than a cheap blade. I do not want to throw $ away on a cheap blade that is a use once and toss kind of deal. Are there any suggestions on brands?
Sears has Craftsman blades ranging from 24t-200t--$10-$90
Home Depot has a large variety in brands-Dewalt,Diablo, Oldham, Ridgid, Ryobi-24t-80t
My local hardware store sells pretty much the same thing as HD-except for the Ridgid/Ryobi-I am assuming HD exclusive?
I am basically needing to know what kind/brand to buy. How many teeth do I need for a finish cut in:
1. Oak plywood
2. MDF
3. Solid Oak
4. OSB
5. Pine
6. Melamine
Should I use a general 36t blade on ripping dimensional lumber and buy a plywood only blade around 80t?

Should I spend the extra $ on a blade that has heat expansion slots cut into them like this Ridgid?
RIDGID 10 In. x 60T Polished Finish Saw Blade - R1060C at The Home Depot


As always-thanks for the advice!
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 11:51 PM
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Forrest WWII 40 tooth combo is what I use 90% of the time.
For everything you listed.
Melamine may need a 60 to 80 tooth if you do several cuts with little chipping.
I just found it the best blade I've ever used for everything (but junk & treated). Stays sharp a loooooong time compared to the box store blades.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 03:17 AM
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I have used the Diablo, Dewalt (cause it came on the saw), same with a Ridgid, The one I hear the most about and have seen the end product of the cut is the Forrest Wood Worker II 40t. That will be my next blade for the TS.

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 06:19 AM
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I'm partial to Freud blades. I have a glue line rip, a cabinetmaker crosscut, and a thin kerf combination. It's a matter of availability and choice.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 09:49 AM
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All brands of blades, like religions and routers, have their adherents. My favorite is Tenryu, followed by Freud's thin kerfs. I haven't found the Holy Grail of saw blades, though. I'm still searching
I've had occasion to use the WWII on a friend's cabinet saw. There did not appear to be any qualitative differences between it and my Tenryu in ripping 8/4 oak with it.
While I won't hesitate to spend what it takes for good equipment, paying the difference for a WWII isn't justified by it's performance. Of course, your mileage may vary.
Good luck in your quest!

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 10:15 AM
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I use a 10" Forrest Woodworker II 40 tooth blade with a 5" stiffner 98% of the time.
I rip & cross cut all types of materials with it. I have been using these blades for over 20 years. Amazon.com now has them priced at $76.14.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 11:24 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisrosenb View Post
I use a 10" Forrest Woodworker II 40 tooth blade with a 5" stiffner 98% of the time.
I rip & cross cut all types of materials with it. I have been using these blades for over 20 years. Amazon.com now has them priced at $76.14.

Sure, now you tell me I could buy one for $76!! Where were you a couple weeks ago! Ha!
WWII40tooth has been in my saw for a short time and my impression is it is GREAT! But I suspect Gene has been at this far longer than I so I respect what he says about various blades. My guess is he's pretty close to saying when you get to a certain level of excellence, its hard to differentiate much. For me, and my simple needs, this Forresst thin kerf is tops.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 11:44 AM
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Are any of the blades mentioned so far FLAT TOP grind ?
I have a bunch of 2x2 ' furniture' I want to make... roll around shelves, plant supports, etc..I want to mortise them.. I think the proper term is half lap...
I may route some of the centers...but some would be faster to cut the edges and nibble the centers out.... and the flat top blades are suggested for that by some...
If none of the already mentioned blades are , or are available with that grind, what are yall's suggestions ?
Could not find any 10 inch flat tops at Home Depot..
Thanks,Greg
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 12:23 PM
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For all around use it is difficult to beat the Freud Diablo blades, and I usually have the 50 tooth combo blade on my saw. Priced about $42 it is an excellent choice. When you compare blades you will find most will do a fair job. For finish work an 80 tooth blade is a good idea. Freud and Forrest take very different approaches to building their blades, and both perform very well. Remember that a thin curf blade means a smaller cut requiring less power, and on bench top or contractors saws this can be the difference in a clean cut.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBM View Post
Are any of the blades mentioned so far FLAT TOP grind ?
I have a bunch of 2x2 ' furniture' I want to make... roll around shelves, plant supports, etc..I want to mortise them.. I think the proper term is half lap...
I've haven't found a flat top blade yet. I use my dado set to do that.

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