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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Question 4Cycle: Maintenance

Random question: It's fall and pretty soon time to clean up and put away the 4 cycle and 2 cycle tools. I try and do a final cleanup, change oil etc, on the gas powered tools.
Usually I try and run the 4 cycle engines until the oil's warm, then drain and refill. It's just that I always feel that I'm not doing everything I should to clean the sump and galleries.
Is there a safe option for flushing out the innards? Not necessary? What about internal cleaning of chainsaws/brushcutter 2 cycle engines? One of those 'if it ain't broke keep your hands off' things?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 04:05 PM
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Amsoil sells a flush out for 4 cycle engines. I wouldn't try it with a two cycle. The oil in the gas lubricates the bottom end of the motor so I wouldn't want to test that with anything out of the norm. You might try running some fuel conditioner/gas mix through. It will help from gumming up the carb, supposedly. However, years ago the FS here took their fire pumps and did that and the next year every one of them had to have the carbs taken apart and the mix flushed out before they would run. It's also possible that they used too strong a mix. The ratio for a saw is only something like a cap full to a tank full.

If it's a lawn mower I think I would just warm it up and then leave the drain plug out over night. There won't be much residue left in by that time.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 04:20 PM
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Run the tank dry in the 2 cycles and use only straight gas, no ethanoy in the gas. I use the farm gas here in BC. It's the same octane as midgrade but the price of regular. Ethanol messes with 2 cycle engines.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 04:44 PM
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Storing 2 Stroke Engines:
1. Remove and dispose of old fuel from the unit.
2. Add a high octane gasoline with the correct oil mix ratio for your equipment, and a Fuel Stabilizer to the fuel tank. Only add enough fuel to run for a couple of minutes.
  • Go w/ Seafoam because it contains a stabilizer, a cleaner, and an anti-gel cylinder lubricant. Use Sta-Bil as a second choice.
  • Another is Startron. it eliminates carbon build-up in the fuel delivery system, making the engine easy start and run smoothly. This fuel additive stabilizes fuel for up to 2 years.
  • Don't know of a no miss 4th choice.
3. Start up the unit and run the engine until itís out of gas. After the engine stops, pull the starter cord a couple of times until the engine no longer sputters from gas remnants left in the fuel system.
4. The next step is to remove the spark plug, spray a lubricant into the spark plug hole, and pull the starter cord a few times. This will lubricate the engineís cylinder parts. Reinstall the spark plug. Your equipment is now ready for storage.

Storing 4 Stroke Engines:
1. Remove and dispose of old fuel from the tank.
2. Add a high octane gasoline (only a small amount) with a fuel stabilizer to your fuel tank. Seafoam here too.
3. Start the engine and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes. This gives the stabilizer time to work through the entire fuel system.
4. Allow the engine to sit for 20-30 minutes if you used a stabilizer with a fuel system cleaner. This will also give it time to clean the ethanol residue and any other residual fuel remnants from the fuel system.
5. Restart the engine and run it until itís completely drained of gas.
6. Your next step is to remove the remaining fuel from the carburetor. Don't forget to drain the fuel bowl. Completely.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 04:53 PM
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What Stick said is how I’ve always done it.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 06:12 PM
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The ethanol in the gas is probably the biggest issue. Buy gas that doesn't have the ethanol in it. I think most of the high grade, high octane gas doesn't have any here. I was at a saw shop when I heard the mechanic tell a customer that if the gas had ethanol in it to either use it up within 10 days or drain it out. They are selling 1 litre cans of gas for saws but I think it's around $10 per can. The guys I know who are still logging for a living are using hi-test instead. I heard that the ethanol wreaks havoc on the rubber parts plus it's a little drier (less oily) than straight gas is. I've been running hi-test in my lawn mowers too.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mimac View Post
Run the tank dry in the 2 cycles and use only straight gas, no ethanoy in the gas. I use the farm gas here in BC. It's the same octane as midgrade but the price of regular. Ethanol messes with 2 cycle engines.
The 2 cycle stuff from Husqvarna/ Red Max is ethanol free, 50:1 with their version of Stabil added. My parts guy swears it can be on there for up to 3 years without gumming up the works. We shall see.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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! Thanks, guys...apparently I've been on the side of the angels. Most of the suggestions are in play already. I use the brushcutter year round, and the lawnmower until all the leaves are down...picked up and mulched by the mower.
I only use the premium fuel...no ethanol...and I always add stabilizer as soon as I get back from the gas station. Then I decant from the big container into a smaller one, and add the oil for my 2 cycles.
The lawn mower and 10HP chipper are both 4 cycle and consume far more gas in a year than the brushcutter and chainsaw.
It was any sediment remaining in the sump that I was concerned about.
Thanks again!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 02:19 PM
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Or move to the deep south, where we run our lawn equipment almost all year round!!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Yeh, but then in the Fall you don't need leaf blowers either; Nature has that covered...
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