Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert?

I'm a little confused, my saw has a 100mm depth of cut. If I use the method of removing riving knife, then place blank insert in table, hold down with the fence. Then bring the blade all the up by 50mm through the insert. For the zci to work fully, does blade always have to be raised to 50mm, or can I lower to whatever height I would normally use it at say 18mm for plywood and I will still be getting the zci benefit? I appreciate the sides of the zci are flush with the saw plate but I'm wondering if the slot is longer does the zci still work like that? I'm sorry if I havn't expressed what I mean very clearly.

This is what I'm getting at,read it somewhere else.

" If you later lower the blade, the ZCI is no longer strictly ZC. It will be ZC at the sides, but not at the front, directly in front of the teeth. That might matter if you are cutting MFC ( Melamine Faced Chipboard ) for example."

When using saw as is with the standard large gap insert in place.As a safety thing I always adjust height of saw, so tips of teeth clear workpiece and no more. I wouldn't like to make a zci by raising blade up through blank say 50mm, then have to keep at that height to get zci effect, would lose complete effect if lowered blade down. I hope this explains my confusion more clearly.
Thanks.



Thanks.

Last edited by Gaia; 09-28-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 03:45 PM
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you can lower to any height you wish...
but why make a full slit if you don't have to...
I trust you will be reinstalling the slitter/riving knife..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Last edited by Stick486; 09-28-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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you can lower to any height you wish...
but why make a full slit if you don't have to...
I trust you will be reinstalling the slitter/riving knife..
" but why make a full slit if you don't have to... " The thickness of the workpiece may vary.
" I trust you will be reinstalling the slitter/riving knife.. " I didn't mention, yes of course I'll extend the slot backwards to accommodate it.
Cheers.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 04:43 PM
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" but why make a full slit if you don't have to... " The thickness of the workpiece may vary.
as the material gets thicker increase the slot on a need to basis...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to be making the zci out of 3mm acrylic, can get a 400 x 600mm sheet on Ebay UK for £13.84. This would allow me to make up several blanks, make up as required.

Could be a false economy, as might be a variety of workpiece thicknesses. I suppose I could sort of, stagger the length of the slots to accommodate different thicknesses?
So height of blade was say never more than 1/2 inch above workpiece. That would keep my safety considerations satisfied.
Though I wonder if swapping inserts in and out, when put them back in, they would go back in exactly the same position, maintaining the zc front and sides of blade?
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 05:55 PM
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"I'm going to be making the zci out of 3mm acrylic, can get a 400 x 600mm sheet on Ebay UK for £13.84. "
Why acrylic? Seems like a bit of an extravagance(?)...
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 05:57 PM
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they should if made accurately...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 10:53 PM
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Some saws have a very thin steel insert, around 1/8"/3mm. If that's the case then acrylic is probably one of the best choices. The Unisaw and a few others like it take one that is about 1/2" thick which makes them easy to make. I just dab a couple of drops of hot melt glue on the blank to hold the original insert to it and use a pattern bit to rout the blank. That only takes a few minutes each and I use mdf for mine. I use felt marker to mark the undersides as to which blade it's for and whether I used stabilizers with it. Having the sides tight is more important that slot length but I agree with what Stick said and keep it as short as you need it.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
"I'm going to be making the zci out of 3mm acrylic, can get a 400 x 600mm sheet on Ebay UK for £13.84. "
Why acrylic? Seems like a bit of an extravagance(?)...
acrylic is nick sensitive and brittle....
BB would be a better choice or polycarbonate...
DaninVan, Danman1957 and jj777746 like this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 07:32 AM
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Peter,
The advantage of a zero clearance insert is that it helps prevent tear out because the wood you are cutting has the support right next to the blade, which creates a shearing effect as the blade rotates. The length of the saw kerf in the insert itself is unimportant.
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