Radial Arm Saw Table Set-Up - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Set-Up

I have received several questions about my RAS T-track top while posting pictures on other topics within the forum. So in order to better try & describe the RAS top, I'm going to post several stages of the table top building here.

I didn't go by any set plans, It was more or less a trial & error type of process!
Originally I had planed to make a drop-leaf style table for the right-hand side, But during the build I changed my mind. That's the reason some of the pictures in the beginning stages show a off-set style top.

I knew I wanted to install the T-tracks & I also wanted a nice solid top that wouldn't warp or twist after it was built. What I ended up with was a modified version of a MR. Sawdust style top.
It has the normal 1/8” X 3/4” wide pieces of steel running from side-to-side in-between the front section, But I also installed two 3/8” X 3/4” steel pieces that run front-to-back. These thicker front-to-back pieces were installed flat 3/4” wide & recessed 3/8” deep into the bottom of the table. These front-to-back pieces also serve as a mounting surface for a new 12- point leveling base connection set-up.

The old flimsy table mounting brackets & base connections were replaced with 1/8” thick 2” X 2” angle-iron. The new angle-iron brackets have (6) holes each that were drilled just under 5/16” which allows me a little wiggle-room for adjusting the table which has (12) 1/4” bolts.

All things considered it was probably a lot of “Over-Kill” on my part!
But I was given the saw for free & I pretty much had most of the materials on-hand. So it didn't really cost me much to put it all together.

Doug
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a few pictures of the top with the T-track.

Doug
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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My latest addition is a sliding table that lets me cut/square-up live edge lumber & make tapered cuts.

Doug
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Here's some pictures of the various set-ups I've came up with.

Doug
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 07:32 PM
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Nice table Doug. Next time I have to redo the table on mine I think I'll use some of your ideas, looks like it could save having to redo it again.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 04:21 PM
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Doug, you continue to edify - thank you.
Two questions:
1. Any reason why you have used twin-T-track, except for the combo track at the front?
2. The placement of the transverse track near the fence could cause problems with some rip-cuts (I don’t see the usual furrows from the blade in the rip position on your table). How did you determine where to locate it?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biagio View Post
Any reason why you have used twin-T-track, except for the combo track at the front?
I already had it on hand, It was left-over from a all plywood workbench I built awhile back.
I basically followed this PLAN But I added an extra sheet & supper track to the top.

Originally planned to use the twin track on the bench but I went with the supper track instead.

Doug
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Last edited by dwall174; 11-12-2018 at 02:56 PM. Reason: correction
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biagio View Post
(I don’t see the usual furrows from the blade in the rip position on your table).
That's just me being picky & not wanting to mess-up the top anymore than is needed.
On stock 1" & under I usually adjust the blade to where it's just barely touching the top of the table.

With thicker stock I usually adjust the depth of cut to roughly 2/3rds. of the boards thickness & then make 2 cuts, Flipping the board end-to-end for the second cut.

A closer pic. shows a light mark where the blade's teeth just barely make a mark.
Also shows were I needed to cut into the fence a little while making a odd bevel cut.

Doug
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biagio View Post
How did you determine where to locate it?
That was pretty easy!

4 foot piece of track cut into 4 pieces worked out to roughly 11-3/4" each.
The front track location was determined by the maximum out-rip position.

Doug
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2018, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Another benefit of being able to clamp the stock to the table is while making dado cuts!

Dado cuts on a RAS are usually pretty limited as far as the depth of cut goes since the normally action of pulling the blade through the stock will try to grab/dig-in pushing the motor towards the operator.

With the stock securely clamped to the table!
I'm able to push the dado blade into the stock (With-out fear of it lifting-up) which can happen if you try this on a stranded RAS.

Here's some pictures of dado's I've made using the push-through method (Sorry didn't think to take "set-up" pics)
These dado's were made at full depth (aprox. 1-1/4") using a 8" Freud supper dado stack, 3/4" wide set-up.

Doug
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