anyone replaced the chuck on a drill press? - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 08:38 PM
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overshadowed it not having a crank to raise and lower the table. its really not that hard to move it but now that im old i wish i went with another one.
add a really small couple of hundred pound winch like on the tongue of a boat trailer...

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 09:01 PM
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mine is a 11-090
Heck that would be considered a youngster in my garage.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 09:17 PM
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Put a scissor jack under the table and use a drill with socket adapter to raise and lower it. I found some cheap chucks on ebay to replace the ones on an old Milwaukee 1/2" and a B&D old metal bodied 1/2" single speed non reversible (one of the good ones they used to make). Both were given to me with broken chucks. The most expensive replacement was between $12 and $15. One I think was only about $8. Both have worked very well and for the last 5 years or so. You can spend a lot of money on one but it doesn't mean you need to. Some of the chucks I looked at on ebay were about $1000.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 09:29 PM
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Put a scissor jack under the table and use a drill with socket adapter to raise and lower it.
Yeah I agree!

Search YouTube for scissor jack & hydraulic bottle jack used for drill press table, There's a bunch out there.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 07:32 AM
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Lots of advice here. Here's mine- buy another drill press.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 10:07 AM
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I've been looking for an radial drill to see if I can remove the drill head and mount a router on instead. It looks to me like it could make a great setup for that. Our dearly departed BJ3 mounted a bracket on the back of radial arm saw motor to hold one. Very similar idea. Having it overheadopens up a new set of opportunities. The swivel function might too.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of advice here. Here's mine- buy another drill press.

its on the list behind a planer jointer router lift miter saw.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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I've been looking for an radial drill to see if I can remove the drill head and mount a router on instead. It looks to me like it could make a great setup for that. Our dearly departed BJ3 mounted a bracket on the back of radial arm saw motor to hold one. Very similar idea. Having it overheadopens up a new set of opportunities. The swivel function might too.

wow. that would be tremendous. if I ever tried to do something like that what ever I made with it would probably look like I drug down the road behind my truck
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 06:26 PM
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Yeah I agree!

Search YouTube for scissor jack & hydraulic bottle jack used for drill press table, There's a bunch out there.

Doug
why not a forklift, that will do nicely, or just buy a good floor standing drill press??..I've made all kinds of precision tapers, and making a taper for a drill that is junk is just not worth it!..

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 11:07 PM
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Your original question has anyone replace a keyed chuck with a keyless. I have a Ryobi Benchtop with the Reeves variable speed drive. It came with a keyed chuck and I got a new keyless from Woodcraft with a shaft attached. The shaft is a Morse #2 taper. The drive shaft that the chuck sits has a slot and a wedge shaped tool that you use to drive the old chuck and shaft out with. At first I had trouble with the shaft spinning. I finally took the table off and gave the chuck and shaft a good wack with a wooden mallet and that problem was solved.

As far as drilling I like the keyless chuck. You must really give a good twist with both hands to get bits to not slip in the chuck. I mostly use small bits and sometimes as big as a 3" circle cutter. No problem getting the bits to tighten up . I drew with a silver permanent marker an arrow for tighten and untighten.

Portable drills are easier to tighten the bit because you have one hand to hold the chuck and one to press the drive switch. The drill press is a little different in that you need both hands to tighten the chuck. If you have mobility or strength problems a keyless chuck is probably not best.

So I would say that for me it was a good upgrade. I took my old keyed chuck and morse #2 taper shaft and use on my lathe in the tail stock for drilling holes in turnings. On the lathe I think the keyless chuck would be impractical.
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