That is a great solution. Zero clearance too. I think you might want to run the first edge through a jointer to get a truly straight edge on it. Most common wood is going to have some small irregularities you'd want to get rid of. The thickness of a folded sheet of paper is all the wiggle room you have for side to side movement, and a small warp on the straight edge would bind the saw.
I think you'd want one of these to be at least 6 feet long, maybe aeven, depending on the position of the blade and bottom of the saw.
With a battery operated saw, this would be something you might want on a job site, not just in the shop. Drill a hole on one end so you can hang it up for storage. You might also want to lay two long pieces of low friction tape for the saw to slide along smoothly. Given my memory, I'd also print a reminder on it to keep the good face down to reduce tear out. The blade you set it up with shold also be labeled for that use. You wouldn't want a mis-fit that would destroy the zero clearance quality.
One thing about a track saw is the ability to lower the blade safely and accurately into the wood. I suppose you could do that with this jig, but it would really be easy to mess it up as you pushed the blade down, or used the blade depth settings on the saw. The track saw uses a depth stop so you can avoid accidentally cutting too deep. I keep a big sheet of flat foam insulation around for track saw use.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.
Last edited by DesertRatTom; 01-24-2019 at 02:21 PM.