Jointer Producing Uneven Surface - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 07:29 AM
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Peter when checking your profile I see that you have 2 handheld portable planers but I can't seem to find the stationary one.
you might want to let us know of the make & model of the stationary one ---just in case it might introduce some idiosyncracies of the machine into your dilemma. from the pics it looks like the blade guard doesn't pivot out of the way as you pass the board over the knives forcing you to reposition your hands.

IF it's a dual purpose machine ( planer/jointer) does it function correctly as a planer (parallel faces?).

just trying to think out of the box.

smitty
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 07:51 AM
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"All the setting gauge does is set the height of the knives relative to the cutter head"

Are you sure about this Charles?

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by harrysin View Post
"All the setting gauge does is set the height of the knives relative to the cutter head"

Are you sure about this Charles?
Absolutely certain Harry. Think about how it functions. The gauge has 4 legs that allow it to straddle the knife opening. It sits entirely on the cutter head with no reference to the beds. It is necessary to some extend as it controls how much knife sticks past the clamping bars. Too much exposure puts too much leverage on the knives which could cause them to move. But it does nothing to ensure that the knives are level to the outfeed bed which is the important one. If the cutter head were not level to the outfeed bed then one side could be a few thousandths different than the other edge which is exactly what Peter's photo shows.

Use the gauge to set the knife exposure and then adjust the outfeed bed until the knives will just tick against a hardwood board held down on it and the reset the knives level to the board. If that works then the permanent fix is to shim the cutter head level to the outfeed bed.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 10:18 AM
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From my frustrating experience with my own 8" Powermatic I bought used from a "craftsman" who had been using it extensively, I found I was very proficient in making wedges. It was then that I bought my first two straight edges. My problem was all Gerry mentioned. I checked the bearings and they were fine but the blades were way off, chipped, and in need of replacing. I bought a magnetic jig to hold the new set of blades and set them properly. Then double checked that the tables were coplanar and had to make a few adjustments. That's the hardest part in my case. Every adjustment no matter how minor requires rechecking in all directions as it will likely change the opposing angle. I think it took the better part of an afternoon and a few migraine pills. But the results were fantastic and the effort leaves you feeling drained and yet very proud of yourself knowing what you did was no small feat, at least not for me. A good straight edge is essential for making the adjustments and it doesn't hurt having some scrap to test with along the way.

Now if there's an easy way to do this I never read about it so if someone knows this would be a great place to post those instructions in a clear concise step by step (illustrated if possible-I like pictures) procedure. I know those bearings will need replacing some day......
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty10101 View Post
Peter when checking your profile I see that you have 2 handheld portable planers but I can't seem to find the stationary one.
you might want to let us know of the make & model of the stationary one ---just in case it might introduce some idiosyncracies of the machine into your dilemma. from the pics it looks like the blade guard doesn't pivot out of the way as you pass the board over the knives forcing you to reposition your hands.

IF it's a dual purpose machine ( planer/jointer) does it function correctly as a planer (parallel faces?).

just trying to think out of the box.

smitty
Hi,
I havn't updated my tools listing for a long time. Quite a few of the tools listed I no longer have, been replaced with upgraded items. The Jointer/planer, here is called planer/thicknesser. The machine is an Axminster AT107PT.
" IF it's a dual purpose machine ( planer/jointer) does it function correctly as a planer (parallel faces?)." To use the thicknesser part of the machine I have to remove the fence completely and hang it on brackets on the side of machine. The fence is quite heavy and is cumbersome to remove. I could see it getting dropped onto the concrete floor and getting dented out of shape and being unusable. Axminster don't carry spares for such large parts of their machines. They would have to order a replacement. This would meaning waiting for 3 months for the next lot of shipping containers to come over from China.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Absolutely certain Harry. Think about how it functions. The gauge has 4 legs that allow it to straddle the knife opening. It sits entirely on the cutter head with no reference to the beds. It is necessary to some extend as it controls how much knife sticks past the clamping bars. Too much exposure puts too much leverage on the knives which could cause them to move. But it does nothing to ensure that the knives are level to the outfeed bed which is the important one. If the cutter head were not level to the outfeed bed then one side could be a few thousandths different than the other edge which is exactly what Peter's photo shows.

Use the gauge to set the knife exposure and then adjust the outfeed bed until the knives will just tick against a hardwood board held down on it and the reset the knives level to the board. If that works then the permanent fix is to shim the cutter head level to the outfeed bed.
The jig I posted references the outfeed table independent of the cutter head.

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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"All the setting gauge does is set the height of the knives relative to the cutter head. If trhe head is not quite level with the tables then you'll get the results shown."

There is a gap of 1.2mm between the outfeed table as is and the barrel of the cutter head.

The knives have small springs under them. When using the supplied knife setting jig I took great care to set the height of the knives in the cutter block, repeating the process several times, just to be sure.
The knife setting jig is quite substantial isn't a cheapy bit of pressed aluminium.

Using the moving ruler forward method.
The flat batten positioned on outfeed table next to fence crossing over cutter head to infeed table.
Knife 1 moves batten forward onto infeed table by 2mm.
Knife 2 by 5.5mm.
Knife 3 by 4mm.

Batten positioned opposite side of tables.
Knives 1,2 and 3 don't move at all.

Part of past communication with Axminster engineer on advice on adjusting the machine.

Tolerances.
When the wood moves forward 5mm, this means the blade at it's highest point stands roughly 0.10mm proud of the surface of the outfeed table.
If you end up with the wood moving 4mm on one side and 6mm on the other, it's unlikely you will notice this when operating the machine.
As long as the blade is slightly higher than the outfeed table, the machine will work. If it is too high the material will be cut but won't be perfectly flat.

One thing I've been aware of but I didn't think was crucial, was the infeed table is very slightly askew in relation to the cutter head.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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The machine is an Axminster AT107PT planer thicknesser with a 3 knife cutter block. Attached is a pdf from an Axminster service engineer showing quite detailed advice on how to adjust, set the machine up to get the desired results I have gone through all the procedure..... took me several days!!! I also have email content about adjusting too. Which I will locate, as may shed more light on the problem
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File Type: pdf AT107PT 508498 Full Table Adjustment 2017.pdf (1.77 MB, 6 views)
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Gaia;1999635]Hi,
I havn't updated my tools listing for a long time. Quite a few of the tools listed I no longer have, been replaced with upgraded items. The Jointer/planer, here is called planer/thicknesser. The machine is an Axminster AT107PT.
" IF it's a dual purpose machine ( planer/jointer) does it function correctly as a planer (parallel faces?)." To use the thicknesser part of the machine I have to remove the fence completely and hang it on brackets on the side of machine. The fence is quite heavy and is cumbersome to remove. I could see it getting dropped onto the concrete floor and getting dented out of shape and being unusable. Axminster don't carry spares for such large parts of their machines. They would have to order a replacement. This would meaning waiting for 3 months for the next lot of shipping containers to come over from China. I have a Dewalt 733 planer/thicknesser, which does an excellant job.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 07:45 PM
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This article about setting a jointer up seems pretty decent: https://www.woodmagazine.com/tuning-up-your-jointer
As stated at the very end of the article, the outfeed table needs to be set dead level with the tops of the knives. This is why setting the knives using the outfeed table is the best method of doing that. When you lay a board on the outfeed and turn the cutter head you should hear and feel the knives tick the bottom but the cutter shouldn't roll the board ahead.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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