First Dado - Table Saw Miter Sled - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Default First Dado - Table Saw Miter Sled

I had a chance to work with the dado set that I got along with the new table saw. Set up the dado table insert and set the dado stack for 3/4", more precisely 0.755". Ran a couple test cuts to get it where I wanted it. Had put in a 0.010" shim to begin with, but took it out and the dado slot turned out perfect. Have to tap the plastic miter slot bars lightly to seat them. Just need to screw them in place and they will be ready to go.

You'll notice the base is in two pieces. I did it this way so I could get the dado-ed miter bar grooves to fit the plastic bars snugly and not have to fight with positioning the two grooves in the same base board. The blade faces of each panel match along the cut line and I will line these up when I mount the fences and make a zero clearance cut, and I theory, everything should slide freely with minimal play. If it works, I think it is a slick way of doing it.

I had previously made the front and rear fences, by gluing together two pieces of the 1/2" Baltic birch plywood the bases are made from. Then bandsaw the rough shape followed by sanding. I don't have the screws I want for mounting the fences, so will have to do the one-hour drive to Baker City to get to a hardware store that has brass screws. There are two hardware stores in the town I live in, Halfway, OR, but the one that has better stock and selection in fasteners is close indefinitely due to a collapsing roof. The remaining one that is open doesn't stock any brass fasteners.

I have the brass crews I want for the miter bars, but I'm just too tired tonight to do any more.

Rick
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 12:59 AM
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I don't know about down there Rick but brass screws are getting hard to come by up here. UHMW is bad for creep meaning that it will continue distorting with pressure on it forever, literally. You didn't say what kind of screw but you may need to countersink the holes and use round heads. I tried the same runners on mine but my sled was narrower and I tried extending the runners out past the ends for more control but the UHMW was too flimsy for that so I took them off and went with hard wood ones.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Chuck,

I'm not surprised the UHMW runners were too flimsy extended beyond the base. I think what I'm using is UHMW, but I'm not sure. It is very slick, very white and shiny. I've had it for year and was originally going to make skid pads for moving heavy machine tools.

I'm not sure how you mean it creeps. The screws I have and am planning on using are flathead. Are you saying I should not use them, but use countersunk round head instead? I can certainly do that; I was going to countersink the flatheads. Please elaborate. BTW, I would call creating a recess for the round heads "counterbored" rather than countersink. The latter means tapered to me.

Brass screws are not getting that hard to find down here, as far as I know. They are expensive and the area I live in is fairly depressed economically, so I'm not surprised the one store doesn't stock them.

Rick

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 01:23 AM
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Counter bore and use truss head screws...
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RickKr View Post
Chuck,

I'm not surprised the UHMW runners were too flimsy extended beyond the base. I think what I'm using is UHMW, but I'm not sure. It is very slick, very white and shiny. I've had it for year and was originally going to make skid pads for moving heavy machine tools.

I'm not sure how you mean it creeps. The screws I have and am planning on using are flathead. Are you saying I should not use them, but use countersunk round head instead? I can certainly do that; I was going to countersink the flatheads. Please elaborate. BTW, I would call creating a recess for the round heads "counterbored" rather than countersink. The latter means tapered to me.

Brass screws are not getting that hard to find down here, as far as I know. They are expensive and the area I live in is fairly depressed economically, so I'm not surprised the one store doesn't stock them.

Rick
The flat head screws may cause the UHMW to swell under the pressure of the tapered shoulder. I read a good paper on it's properties a few years ago but a quick search didn't turn up anything useful. The paper I read before said that if UHMW, which is what you described is most likely, is subjected to constant pressure it will continue to deform. One of it's uses over here is a low friction bearing plate on the 5th wheels of semi trucks. They have to be replaced periodically and when they get removed they aren't just worn, they have also significantly changed dimension, getting flatter and wider. The couple of articles I scanned said that the material is used in bowstrings and as a traditional type archer one of the things we look for in bowstrings is the resistance to creep, or in other words the tendency of the string material to keep stretching over time.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:58 AM
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I can confirm, the creep is not theoretical. I tried flathead screws with this material once and I could never keep the runners operating smoothly
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 10:16 AM
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I would not use any screw that has a taper...it will expand the runner. Counterbore and flat bottom (truss, modified truss, pan, etc...). The more the merrier...

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Excellent. Thanks for the information. Knowing the "why" really helps. I can easily do flat bottom.

Dang, I've had those brass screws for decades. I was glad to see I had enough, they were the right size and I finally had a use for them. They may go on the list of things to get from Baker City. I definitely can put the flat bottom in, it is just a matter of what type of screw to use.

Will it work to just screw into the plywood? Or should I use threaded inserts in the plywood. I have an ample supply of the inserts, but it means using 1/4"-20 fasteners. I was hoping to avoid through holes for these. No need to give the sawdust a place to collect and get in the way.

Rick

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 10:39 AM
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No need for the inserts...just screw the right size screw into the plywood...pre-drilling may help depending on size of screw used...
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 07:26 PM
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I used 1/4" round head machine screws counter bored and threaded the UHMW to accept the screws. This was for a large 2 runner sled that I made years ago and it still runs very smooth.
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