question about JET 10-20 Drum Sander
I know this isn't about routers, but I have a Jet 10-20 drum sander. I am trying to replace the sandpaper for the first time.
After 4-hours working at it, I haven't accomplished anything. Do any of you know of anyone that has actually replaced the paper in the 10-20 sander?
I checked Youtube, but they discuss a different model whose top opens. Then a foreign video shows replacing the paper with the drum out.
H E L P!
I contacted JET, but so far no response. The clip on the right side is impossible to get your fingers on it and the paper is trying to go in the wrong direction.
This sent a device for assisting, but it is totally useless.
I just changed paper for the first time a week ago on my new 16-32 King which is probably the same machine as a Jet and likely has some of the same parts as yours. I had trouble figuring out the clip on the right side too. I had to get a mechanics mirror in there so I could see it. If the drum slot the paper goes in is facing more or less towards you then you have to get your finger down a ways under the whole mechanism and lift it up an inch or better until the slot in the clip is visible in the slot of the drum. There is a pretty good spring load on the clip and it's not that easy a job. Plus you have to manage to shove the paper into that clip at the very least an inch before it will grab while you are holding it. Another pair of hands to hold the drum and paper while you are fighting with that might help.
On my King it came with paper that was 3 1/16" wide and the replacement rolls are only 3" wide. Putting the new paper on while keeping the wraps tight together left a gap between the last wrap and the slot in the drum. The only way that I could make it work out was to leave a 1/16" gap between wraps to make up for the difference in paper width. I don't know if you'll have that problem but if you do it's the only solution I've found.
BTW, I moved the thread to the Tools and Woodworking sub forum.
I assume the best practices for our SuperMax are the same for most drum sanders in wrapping the sandpaper; I leave a gap in the last wrap on the right hand side. If I don't then the paper walks on top of itself after one or two passes of wood through on that end. The manual recommends doing that, as well.
Like this -
Btw, this won't help y'all but changing paper on the SuperMax takes all of about 2-3 minutes. I don't know what's different on the clips but I clip the left side, spin the drum to wrap the paper, and clip it into the right side. After a couple of passes I check it to see if either end has loosened any due to paper stretch, the roll settling in, etc.
I have had the 10/20,16/32, and now the Super Max 16/32.
The Performax 10/20, is the same machine as the Jet. Did you get the tool and the manual for your sander?
The tool is a great help ,once you get to master how to use it. There are Utube videos on how.
It is a real bugger tthread the right side. Iyou have to start on the left and wrap to the right. Reach your finger down inside and pull the spring loaded catch up then feed the end of the belt in and release. I usually work across any slack in the sanding belt and keep re tightening the clamp til I get it as tight as I can.
I had 2 Performax 16/32 and they are the same.
When Jet bought them out they extended the drum out an inch or so that there is more room on the right side to get your index finger in there to lift the clamp.
The Super Max is made by the same people that invented the Perfomax, and they also provided more room to work on the right side of the drum.I too noticed that the belts have a 1/16" gap between wraps Like Chuck said
But if you can master the tool that came with the sander it really speeds up the belt installation.
I have changed belts close to 100 times and ince you get the hang of it it goes fast.
Both ways are good. The drum expands after some use due to heat build up.
Overlaps kill you they create burns.
I have the tool and I am not impressed with it. Trying to get it back out isn't easy. I figured whoever developed the sander also developed the tool. As my mama would say...useless as tits on a bull. I tried using dental picks, but they weren't strong enough for the sting. Something tells me I'm not going to heaven after some of the things I said yesterday while working on this sander.
You probably uttered some of the same words I did Malcolm. I can't figure out why they put the hardest clip to operate on the blind side of the drum. If it was on the open end it would be much easier.
Also I found that I had to trim the ends on some of the sanding belts to get the taper narrowed down so that the tensioning spring would tighten the belt. It deepened a lot on how much of the end I put in the starter clip on the left side when I started the sanding belt wrap.
I got so I would buy the rolls of sanding belt from Klingspor that I cut my own belts to length,I used the belt I took off as a pattern. But I could trim the tapers on the end to fit that way with a pair of those 99 cent HF scissors.
Be sure to check the belt tension after you make a couple of runs, like David said, because any slack in the belt will cause overlap and ruin the new belt in a hurry. I hope this helps those are great machines, Malcolm.
I have had my Grizzly drum sander for about 10yrs, I regretted the purchase from the start because changing the paper was at least a 2 hour ordeal. I was to the point of taking it to the dump and doing without a drum sander. As a last gasp effort I bought this hook and loop conversion kit similar to this, https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...d-G1079R/H5037. It was for a 2 roller machine, but I thought for $41.00 it was worth a shot. I cut the hook and loop to the size of my paper, cleaned the drum with acetone, and installed it. It made all the difference! It now takes me 10 minutes to change the paper and most of that is in cutting the new paper to size.
There are a couple "cons" to this conversion, first it changes the diameter of the drum, so the paper has to be cut from a roll. Next the paper is slightly more expensive, and last the hook and loop creates a "cushion" so you have to take lighter passes. But I have found that the paper lasts much longer and I can't remember the last time the paper caked up and started burnishing the wood.
I still have a full roll of the hook and loop, I don't remember the length, but it is more than enough to do your machine. It's yours for the cost of shipping if you are interested. Just send me a PM.
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