If you are interested in building your own; here is what I used from HF:
Belts (it runs a dual belt): https://www.harborfreight.com/vibrat...elt-43771.html
Motor Pulley: 5/8 shaft with 3/16 keyway - I tried several until I slowed the pump down enough for app 1050 pump rpm for greatest efficiency.
Below are some pics. The oil can be changed easily, the link belts allow for super tight belt tension. If I was to do it again, I would put the motor onto a slider with a dual bolt tensioner - if the belts aren't really tight (I mean like 3 ft prybar tight) they will slip and burn. This pump is very serious.
Also, keep in mind a lot of the inexpensive tools require about double the air volume of an expensive precision tool. Staplers and nail guns are easy peasy for most compressors. The worst air hogs are impact guns die grinders and sanders. They will easily utilize double or triple their rated airflow (since these are usually free/no load specs). Once you actually use them, they will choke on any of the small compressors, making for a frustrating and imprecise experience. Also, they can spit out oil (which needs to go into each tool before every use) and condensation, making a mess. Rear and adjustable exhaust ports are nice to have; as is some kind of inline dryer with some water traps. Using iron pipe with slightly angled runs and down pipes with ball valves at the bottom allows you to dump most of the condensation within the piping prior to it hitting the tool.
A small compressor will run all the time, get way hotter than a big one, putting more water into your air stream. The tank should have an easily accessible bottom drain.
I leave my 60 gall filled unless I go away for more than a week, also releasing pressure out of the piping and hoses. One thing I wish I had done was put the compressor into the shed, so it would be out of the way and quieter, altho it is way quieter than the old integrated Sears Craftsman Pro 5 hp head. Run a single large dia pipe into the garage, along with the electric controls and two ball valves so everything can be disconnected and shut down easily.
One or more separate regulators are also advisable, since nailers require lower pressure and you want the highest pressure and volume available at the tank.
I modded the blow off valve to 145 psi from it's original 130. This was done through the adjustable diaphragm and has helped the motor run a little less. All of the parts and connectors etc are super cheap at HF. Dont forget to keep an eye on their sales and coupons, I think I paid $115 for the pump and motor each a couple of years ago. The pipe is in stock in various lengths at HD or Lowes; don't forget to use pipe dope. I should have bought a pipe thread cutter and made my own, but there is over 100 ft of it in my garage, so I went a little nuts.
You can build all the distribution pipe and basically connect any compressor, so you can grow with it. Also, it is possible to run compressors in parallel for improved air volume delivery. Lots of info out there, I would stay away from PEX and plastic style piping - compressed air leak can create a serious problem in a wood shop environment - dust explosion and fire stoker being two that come to mind. All hoses should have an easily accessible ball valve shut off where they connect to the piping, as well as a master air and electrical power shut off.
Lots of info out there on the design and running of piping and how to make it work.
I realize working on cars, and having several dozen air tools, my perspective is different than most on here.........spoiled with real air supply is not a bad thing. Kinda like having a cabinet saw or industrial grade router table, dust collector and band saw.....which I bet most have on here lol.
Hope this helps a bit.