Dust Collector Design - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gerry, I believe I will run a 5"main with 4" lines to the equipment. I'll have to see what I need to do to convert the 2-1/2" ports to 4" ports. I think the most challenging one will be the table saw.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 12:08 PM
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Thanks Gerry, I believe I will run a 5"main with 4" lines to the equipment. I'll have to see what I need to do to convert the 2-1/2" ports to 4" ports. I think the most challenging one will be the table saw.
Rockler has adapters from 2.5 to 4 inches. Or are you talking about cutting out a bigger opening and adding a 4 inch port? Might be possible with some machines, but not all. Not sure how I'd go about cutting a new opening in sheet steel or cast iron. There are lots of 4 inch plastic ports you could attach to the opening.

Another option would be an above the blade 2.5 inch DC hood like the picture, that even above the blade will still pick up a lot of stray sawdust. In fact, I have a similar one I've never set up if you're interested (PM me), still in the box, cheap. You can run the 2.5 inch hose to the saw from a splitter, and a second 2.5 inch line to the above blade DC setup.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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My plan is to modify the ports to 4" if possible. I think I can do it for my jointer and band saw without too much trouble...the others I'll probably end up going with the reducer as you had mentioned. As far as the over-the-blade dust catcher, my honest thought is that it would probably remain in the box at my house too.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:11 PM
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Yeah, it's best to cut a bigger hole whenever possible. A 4" hose with a 2-1/2" adapter just won't move enough air.

Ger

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 10:25 PM
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You have received a lot of great information! For my 2cents worth, I recommend you ditch the 90 degree connectors. At the corner use two 45s. Where you have tool connections (I don’t know the official name) use one that looks more like a Y than T. Dust likes to hang around 90 degree connections. So you may get stopped up or at least restricted air flow.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ellis. All good suggestions that I'll be incorporating!
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 11:54 PM
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Convinced me to upgrade my system every..
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:29 AM
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Chuck,

I was in a similar situation as yours. I moved from a home with no dedicated shop space to my current place in central Georgia with a partially finished walkout basement. I now have a 400 sq ft dedicated wood shop I am still getting set up. I have the 2 HP Harbor Freight DC with a Rockler Dust Right separator system on a 20 gal plastic drum I purchased on Amazon. This setup captures 99% of the debris into the drum. I am currently using a long 30' piece of 4" DC flex hose that I connect to each tool as needed. I have purchased blast gates and will soon install 4" PVC through the shop.

While watching the Woodsmith show on PBS, they used rubber plumbing fittings that come in different sizes to connect 4" DC hoses to their various sized tool dust ports. I purchased several of these with a 2" size on one end and the appropriate tool size fitting for the tool end. I connect the 2" end to a 4" to 2" reducer. This allows for maximum airflow since the 4" flex is connected just inches from the tool. It will also allow the use of standard 4" blast gates for every tool in case I decide to move some tools to a different location.

My shop is not something I use daily as this time. I hope to change that when I fully retire. The HF DC is up to that frequency of use for me. If you plan on spending a lot of time in your shop then I would invest the money into a higher end DC. I will do that when I get to that point and the current HF unit fails.

Thanks Stick or the excellent DC info. I have saved many of your posts to create my own library of shop knowledge.

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 10:27 PM
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Here is what I did. I have 30’ of 4” pvc pipe. I used what is called a 4” t-wye for all my take offs and used 4” metal blast gates then reduced after that if needed I put the blast gate into the pipe using latex caulking to make a good seal then secure it with self tapping metal screws. I also ran a solid copper wire inside the pipe and outside also. Better safe than sorry with static electricity. I have a grizzly 1029 dc that has done an excellent job for over 10 years. T wyes are about $12 in my area. The air flow is worth it. I have a 50 gallon blue drum with a Thime chip separator before the DC. W
Everything works great for me. Only thing is i don’t seem to have enough suction to my unisaw. Any help with that would be appreciated. Thanks
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 11:29 AM
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I have the Shark Guard, which is great for absorbing above the table sawdust, but I am disappointed at how it gets in the way for narrow rip cuts. I often have to remove it and its riving knife to make a cut. I think I may go back and re-look at the the problem. Maybe install the overarm DC unit I bought but never installed. Wasn't sure how to mount it, but just realized it can be attached to my shop wall next to the table saw. It will lift out of the way and I can keep my riving knife in place. Ah, sawdust, the inspiration for lots of projects.

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