Shopping for a new table saw - Page 4 - Router Forums
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post #31 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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I started with an old Craftsman contractor saw. After adding a Vega fence (that cost more than the saw), it was a good saw for many years.

On any inexpensive saw, the fence makes all the difference.


I have the Shop Fox W1410 I plan installing on it. But not before the C-man is taken apart, cleaned, polished & put back together. One thing that worries me somewhat is that the arbor shaft and nut have damaged threads, hopefully I can tap & die it. Also, the motor slightly squeaks when slowing down, probably needs sawdust blown out & lubricated.


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post #32 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 06:17 AM
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One thing that worries me somewhat is that the arbor shaft and nut have damaged threads, hopefully I can tap & die it.
How bad is it? It's probably a left hand acme type thread. Not sure if you'll be able to find a die to match.

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post #33 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 11:14 AM
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I have a similar saw, and been using it for nearly 10 years now. One of the first things I did was put a new fence on it. It has served me well.

-Mike
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post #34 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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How bad is it? It's probably a left hand acme type thread. Not sure if you'll be able to find a die to match.


Not quite stripped, but damaged enough that changing blades is a challenge. Iíve looked up the assemblies for sale, there are some on eBay if nothing else works.

Upd: Gonna be an easy fix, itís a regular 5/8Ē right hand thread. The arbor nut from my Delta screws on it just fine (so itís actually just the threads on the original nut which are bad), Iíll just buy one.

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post #35 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 09:43 PM
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If it's a right tilt saw you need a left hand threaded nut. If a left tilt saw you need a right hand threaded nut. They need to self tighten when power is applied to the saw. The wrong thread direction will cause the nut to loosen when power is applied, so they design the saws this way for safety reasons. Acme threads are commonly used on the better table saw arbors. Make certain you which is needed before you order it. The left 5/8-12 left hand Acme arbor nuts are more expensive than you would expect. Be prepared for the sticker shock. The one that I bought for my right tilt Unisaw was almost $25

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post #36 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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If it's a right tilt saw you need a left hand threaded nut. If a left tilt saw you need a right hand threaded nut. They need to self tighten when power is applied to the saw. The wrong thread direction will cause the nut to loosen when power is applied, so they design the saws this way for safety reasons. Acme threads are commonly used on the better table saw arbors. Make certain you which is needed before you order it. The left 5/8-12 left hand Acme arbor nuts are more expensive than you would expect. Be prepared for the sticker shock. The one that I bought for my right tilt Unisaw was almost $25

Charley


Itís a left tilt and the arbor nut is 5/8Ē-11 tpi, same as my jobsite. I was able to screw on the jobsite saw arbor nut with no effort and it holds well. I saw the prices on these arbor nuts, anywhere between $13 to $20. Checked HDís website and they have these hex nuts for $0.38, Iíll go check it out.


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post #37 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 07:16 AM
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It's pretty hard to damage an arbor. I've only seen it happen by repeatedly over-tighting the nut, using two wrenches.
The arbor nut only need to be lightly tightened with a wrench on the nut, and holding the blade still with your hand.
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post #38 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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It's pretty hard to damage an arbor. I've only seen it happen by repeatedly over-tighting the nut, using two wrenches.
The arbor nut only need to be lightly tightened with a wrench on the nut, and holding the blade still with your hand.


Judging by the overall state of tool, Iím inclined to believe that itís a case of utter neglect. The saw looks like itís never been cleaned or maintained since it left the store, so itís entirely possible that the previous owner was trying to force the nut through the gunk and rust and ended up chewing up the threads.


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post #39 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:40 PM
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I have the 10" Jet with the sliding table and have no regrets at all, wire it over to 220volt if you have the option, the saws start up much better.
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post #40 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:49 PM
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I have a 80's version Craftsman 113 series they were made by Emerson Electric. Home Depot (Ridgid) bought Emerson I built mine into a custom cabinet and use a Incra Fence system and love it. When looking at the old Craftsman look for the motor that can be converted to 220v. It was explained to me by a electrical engineer that it doubles the torque by hitting at two phase angles. It sure worked on my old radial arm saw. When I used to cut anything over a 2x4 it used to stall.After I converted it it would cut a 2x12 and wouldn't even slow down it was almost scary. My table saw seems to handle anything i throw at it. The Incra Fence is so accurate and so repeatable I would buy another one if I ever bought another saw. Here is a picture of my setup left to right (Stockroom 24" sander-Table Saw-Enclosed Router Table)It has 17 deep drawers on the front and one on the back for the spare sandpaper rolls as well as dust collection.
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