First table saw - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...






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post #12 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...


I posted one with a picture but it has to get approved by a moderator before it posts so I will have one soon


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post #13 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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what part of the country/state are you in N/A???


Northern Illinois northwest suburbs of Chicago


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post #14 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Almost to 10


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post #15 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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Just 2 more


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post #16 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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And this is 10


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post #17 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...


Delta 10" contractors table saw
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/t...955430142.html


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post #18 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:36 AM
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Hi I agree on the sears and craftsman stuff. No parts for them. I had a Delta which had the motor attached to the arbor, a direct drive. There are other models that have a motor hanging off the back, which have more power than the first. I used the first one, the direct drive for several years. I was only 1hp, so I would try to cut reall thick hardwood with it, but fed right and with a really good Freud glue line rip/crosscut combo glade, produced good results.

Whatever you get, you need to get a couple of items right away. A Gripper ($60) to push material and through the blade while keeping your hands away from danger. A Wixey digital angle gauge to make sure you blade is set at exactly 90, 45 or any other angle you wnat, ($39). the new one uses AAA batteries, the old ones didn't. Stick likes another one, but I've been happy with the Wixey. Read about and learn to make zero clearance inserts, which will allow you to make very clean cuts.

If you can see a picture of the saw on your computer screen, you can hit prtscr and put a picture in your memory. I use free software called Irfanview to paste that screen capture image into a window and you can save it on your hard drive and post it. It will really help to identify it. I bought my delta in a closeout at Lowes when it shut down. Cost $300 brand new in the box. My son in law has it now and it's working great.

If it has the motor hanging off the back, then it's a real contractor's saw, has a little more power and can cut a bit thicker chunk of wood than the direct drive model. You can change the supplied conventional drive belt for a link belt that will make it run smoother, but that's an option any time.

Without seeing the saw, I don't think any one of use feels comfortable making a buy recommendation. But if you decide to get it, run it and listen for any odd sounds. Move the crank handles to make sure it travels lock to lock fairly smoothly. Look inside to see if there's a lot of sawdust coating internal parts. That will need cleaning out and relubed using a dry lube.

Check Amazon for used books on tuning up your table saw and table saw use and technique. You can also watch YouTube videos, although many show some techniques that aren't really safe. If there is a blade guard you can use, use it whenever you can.

Blades. I am a big fan of the Freud Glue Line, full kerf glade. That means the blade is about 1/8th inch thick with brazed on teeth that cut an extremely smooth edge, and also cuts a channel that is flat on the bottom. You can get thin kerf blades that reduce waste slightly, but they may flex when you're trying to cut at an angle--as in a picture frame.--and the corners won't fit properly.

Let us know what you decide to do. We all enjoy helping someone get started at this great hobby.

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post #19 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:44 AM
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I looked at the craigslist post and for $150.00 it is not bad, IF it works. The tablesaw is the heart of most woodworking shops. If the saw works it is worth $150.00 to get started. IF the cast iron top only has surface rust it will work fine. If there is deep pitting wait for another saw. The fence looks like a T-square type and the fence is very important. So if your budget can handle it go for it. You cannot get a new one for any where near that price with the amount of stuff you are getting. The Dado is around $100.00 new.
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post #20 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:14 AM
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you said 125 for that......
if it runs.. go for it...

the griper...
make your own...
you'll want other safety gizmos..
the Wixey... I had one and it's replacement..
I moved to the head of the class...
Tilt Box II Digital Inclinometer for Tool Setting - Lee Valley Tools
better yet..
https://www.engineersupply.com/drafting-triangles.aspx

you'll want to tune that saw up...
you'll want to learn your blades...
and I'm partial to Freud blades..
you'll want to do maint...
link belts are a fix to/for a symptom, not the fix to the problem...

and don't believe that pallets are free wood...

BTW...

welcome to the forums N/A.. (that is what you listed for a 1st name)...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Grip-N-Rip.pdf (1,022.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf Table Saw Blades.pdf (857.6 KB, 8 views)
File Type: pdf Table Saw Tune-Up(1).pdf (7.04 MB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf Table Saw Techniques.pdf (207.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: pdf SAW BLADES.pdf (374.9 KB, 7 views)
File Type: pdf A Safer Push Stick.pdf (50.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf Zero-Clearance Insert Spacer.pdf (262.5 KB, 8 views)
File Type: pdf Reasons Why Pallet Creations are So Out.pdf (62.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf 107-pushblock.pdf (660.3 KB, 10 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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