First table saw - Page 9 - Router Forums
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post #81 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 11:19 PM
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Yup. Router plate is the best bet. Kreg makes some leveling screws you can use to level the plate with the top. I prefer a metal plate, and I'd rather have one with a twist lock inert so you don't have to unscrew and screw the insert when you need to change it or adjust height. The plate is big, often 8-9 by 11 -12, the opening in it is usually about 4 inches across, with an insert of different size openings to you have support for your work right near the bit.

Pix of leveling screw and also of a router mounting plate (fancy one in the pix). Middle pix is what I use in many cases to set the bit height. It's cheap. The router plate is a Woodpecker plate, extra heavy, premium price, there are much less expensive plates with the bayonet mount (twist lock like an SLR lens mount). The leveling screws used to be about $20, but you can use regular screws (pre-drilled) through the lip you cut. You can file down the sharp tips for better support. Or use a threaded insert and a bolt trough that lip.

That is a nice saw. I think you got a good deal and it will last a long time. BTW, I don't use paste wax on my cast iron, I use something called Boeshield T-9 to stop rust from forming. Works better than wax for me. Here's a link for several of their products, including a good rust remover. https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-BOE...9XXX9AN2KCWM3C
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 08-25-2019 at 11:31 PM.
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post #82 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yup. Router plate is the best bet. Kreg makes some leveling screws you can use to level the plate with the top. I prefer a metal plate, and I'd rather have one with a twist lock inert so you don't have to unscrew and screw the insert when you need to change it or adjust height. The plate is big, often 8-9 by 11 -12, the opening in it is usually about 4 inches across, with an insert of different size openings to you have support for your work right near the bit.

Pix of leveling screw and also of a router mounting plate (fancy one in the pix). Middle pix is what I use in many cases to set the bit height. It's cheap. The router plate is a Woodpecker plate, extra heavy, premium price, there are much less expensive plates with the bayonet mount (twist lock like an SLR lens mount). The leveling screws used to be about $20, but you can use regular screws (pre-drilled) through the lip you cut. You can file down the sharp tips for better support. Or use a threaded insert and a bolt trough that lip.

That is a nice saw. I think you got a good deal and it will last a long time. BTW, I don't use paste wax on my cast iron, I use something called Boeshield T-9 to stop rust from forming. Works better than wax for me. Here's a link for several of their products, including a good rust remover. https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-BOE...9XXX9AN2KCWM3C


Yea that looks good but I want to go straight through the wood that im using as my base and make my own base plate with that


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post #83 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Rx or N/a; are you ever going to fill out a profile? We neeed to call you something...

Did you buy a router plate for your router? You'll have to pull the existing black plate off and install a router plate to mount it in a table, or not, but that's the normal procedure.

https://www.amazon.com/bosch-router-...er+table+plate


My name is Ron. For some reason on Tapatalk it doesn’t let me fill out a profile or else I would. I just want to mount it to a wood insert I made in the table I would like to make my own router plate instead of having to buy one


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post #84 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 02:39 AM
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Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.
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post #85 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.


I use a Bosch 1617


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post #86 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.


I want To use this board as my base since I already trimmed the table to fit


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post #87 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 12:03 PM
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That will work. Many shop made tables don't have a plate at all. The only complication will come when you use a large bit. If you cut a hole big enough for that, it will be too large an opening for smaller bits. You could switch to a different wood plate with different size openings. the most important thing to me would be getting the wood plate level with the table. You don't want even a small difference because it will cause the workpiece to shift during a cut, which will likely ruin that piece. So do consider using the Kreg levelers which will make it easier for you to get exact alignment.
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post #88 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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That will work. Many shop made tables don't have a plate at all. The only complication will come when you use a large bit. If you cut a hole big enough for that, it will be too large an opening for smaller bits. You could switch to a different wood plate with different size openings. the most important thing to me would be getting the wood plate level with the table. You don't want even a small difference because it will cause the workpiece to shift during a cut, which will likely ruin that piece. So do consider using the Kreg levelers which will make it easier for you to get exact alignment.


Ok thank you for the advice do you happen to know the size of screws to use?


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post #89 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 04:27 PM
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Hopefully you have the centering cone. It really is a must when making your own plates. As stated, you may need a plate for larger bits, but these are usually specialty bits like rail style set, or most large table edge bits. Most of the plates I make for myself use the PC size, when I make a lexan plate I always keep that size in mind for my hole saw. Granted I rarely use the PC fittings for template work, but when used they do work exactly as needed. Most bits will fit in this size, you do not want to big of a hole for your main plate, for small pieces it could cause major issues. I suggest your first be standard size, and have a backup plate for large bits, assuming you have some and size accordingly to the ones you have. If I need a quick disposable plate (for my large table bits that I use once every few years) I will make it out of wood (plywood is best). Anyhow, do what you like, just speaking from my experiences.
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post #90 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 11:36 PM
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Here are a few I have, the small one I made for the trim router, just never needed to finish it. So no center hole as of yet. The one in the table is my main one, and has a PC fitting in it (as I just put it in, lol). And the one on the router is mainly for dado, but I just used it this morning for some edge trimming.
Also posted a pick of item, I am kicking my arse for not buying as soon as they came out. The magfence I got a week ago, and wonder how I ever lived without it for thin veneer stock REALLY quick, as well resaw, and of course as a featherboard. The box in the pic is a long term project, being disabled I only work on it about 20 minutes a week (at most) I did some inlay strips, but have not put them on the box yet. As well I need to work on the quadrants a little more, etc..etc.. The ambrosia is 1/8" panels bookmatched all sliding (no glue), The box bottom (tiger maple) has already been cleared as it was also a floating bottom panel. Just not sure what else I want to do with it. Sorry for the really crappy pics, in the future I will take better pics. Oh, yeah that's all 3/4 plexi or thicker. The only reason box is in pic, as it was truly just sitting there (I did not purposefully place it). It needs to be moved, as I just redid my outfeed table. And now need to do side table, you can see how bad shape its in. Probably will not add a router hole in it, as I have a Incra fence system, I will use on my workbench, and just transfer router there (will be easier to add dust control anyhow.)

Sorry for off topic (it's nearly 11pm and I was online, I sleep 1 day but am up for 3 days straight) As well, I do not want to hijack thread, but we have already covered the main topic of table saw.

Oh BTW, good choice on TS, it looks good to boot.
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