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First table saw

15K views 89 replies 23 participants last post by  BCR 
#1 ·
I’m just getting into woodworking and I want a decent saw that is not too expensive I have been talking to a guy on Craig’s list with a delta 10” 62-042 that looks like it is in great condition and comes with a frued dado set. Is this a decent deal ? There is also a Sears and Roebuck that I am looking at but can only make out partial model numbers .29930


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#6 · (Edited)
skip the sears at any price...
are you sure about the model # for the delta???
I'm pretty sure the model # you give is for the motor and not the saw...
 
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#9 ·
hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...
 
#18 ·
Hi I agree on the sears and craftsman stuff. No parts for them. I had a Delta which had the motor attached to the arbor, a direct drive. There are other models that have a motor hanging off the back, which have more power than the first. I used the first one, the direct drive for several years. I was only 1hp, so I would try to cut reall thick hardwood with it, but fed right and with a really good Freud glue line rip/crosscut combo glade, produced good results.

Whatever you get, you need to get a couple of items right away. A Gripper ($60) to push material and through the blade while keeping your hands away from danger. A Wixey digital angle gauge to make sure you blade is set at exactly 90, 45 or any other angle you wnat, ($39). the new one uses AAA batteries, the old ones didn't. Stick likes another one, but I've been happy with the Wixey. Read about and learn to make zero clearance inserts, which will allow you to make very clean cuts.

If you can see a picture of the saw on your computer screen, you can hit prtscr and put a picture in your memory. I use free software called Irfanview to paste that screen capture image into a window and you can save it on your hard drive and post it. It will really help to identify it. I bought my delta in a closeout at Lowes when it shut down. Cost $300 brand new in the box. My son in law has it now and it's working great.

If it has the motor hanging off the back, then it's a real contractor's saw, has a little more power and can cut a bit thicker chunk of wood than the direct drive model. You can change the supplied conventional drive belt for a link belt that will make it run smoother, but that's an option any time.

Without seeing the saw, I don't think any one of use feels comfortable making a buy recommendation. But if you decide to get it, run it and listen for any odd sounds. Move the crank handles to make sure it travels lock to lock fairly smoothly. Look inside to see if there's a lot of sawdust coating internal parts. That will need cleaning out and relubed using a dry lube.

Check Amazon for used books on tuning up your table saw and table saw use and technique. You can also watch YouTube videos, although many show some techniques that aren't really safe. If there is a blade guard you can use, use it whenever you can.

Blades. I am a big fan of the Freud Glue Line, full kerf glade. That means the blade is about 1/8th inch thick with brazed on teeth that cut an extremely smooth edge, and also cuts a channel that is flat on the bottom. You can get thin kerf blades that reduce waste slightly, but they may flex when you're trying to cut at an angle--as in a picture frame.--and the corners won't fit properly.

Let us know what you decide to do. We all enjoy helping someone get started at this great hobby.
 
#19 ·
I looked at the craigslist post and for $150.00 it is not bad, IF it works. The tablesaw is the heart of most woodworking shops. If the saw works it is worth $150.00 to get started. IF the cast iron top only has surface rust it will work fine. If there is deep pitting wait for another saw. The fence looks like a T-square type and the fence is very important. So if your budget can handle it go for it. You cannot get a new one for any where near that price with the amount of stuff you are getting. The Dado is around $100.00 new.
 
#20 ·
you said 125 for that......
if it runs.. go for it...

the griper...
make your own...
you'll want other safety gizmos..
the Wixey... I had one and it's replacement..
I moved to the head of the class...
Tilt Box II Digital Inclinometer for Tool Setting - Lee Valley Tools
better yet..
https://www.engineersupply.com/drafting-triangles.aspx

you'll want to tune that saw up...
you'll want to learn your blades...
and I'm partial to Freud blades..
you'll want to do maint...
link belts are a fix to/for a symptom, not the fix to the problem...

and don't believe that pallets are free wood...

BTW...

welcome to the forums N/A.. (that is what you listed for a 1st name)...
 

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#22 ·
That’s great I just wanted to know that what I was getting was decent before I pulled the trigger on it thank you everyone for being so helpful I appreciate All those links I’ll let you guys know how it goes later today


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#23 ·
As Stick advises, stay away from the Craftsman if possible. I had a few in my early days and they weren't very good. What's considered a good price or better what's your budget? I wouldn't suggest spending the least or you'll likely regret the choice soon afterwards. Depending on what you intend to build usually the table saw becomes the central tool in the shop and is worthy of being as good as you can afford. Thing's to also keep in mind is table size, although you can build a table to add on or even surround the saw, the quality of the fence, and HP of the motor. Some can be wired 120/220 or only one or the other so you need to be sure you have power to connect. Also beware of 3 phase tools which are usually larger commercial units and although not bad to have you'll need a phase generator to run on household voltages. Yet another expense but of it's a great deal, may be worth it.
 
#24 ·
That Delta saw is a 34-4** model, quite likely the 34-444 and it's a real bargain at $150 (if it runs). The Unifence alone is worth more than he's asking for the whole saw. Everything else is gravy.

The only thing that I don't like about these saws is the saw dust control - there isn't any. Most of it will land on that shelf. The rest will go everywhere. There is an after market bag that attaches to the legs where the shelf is located, to collect what falls straight down, but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully.

I hope you get it before someone else grabs it. This is one of the better used table saws and it's worth $200-300 in that condition, not even counting the value of the extras.. You could sell the motor, fence, miter gauge, and the other accessories and turn a good profit if you decide not to keep it.

Charley
 
#28 ·
That Delta saw is a 34-4** model, quite likely the 34-444 and it's a real bargain at $150 (if it runs). The Unifence alone is worth more than he's asking for the whole saw. Everything else is gravy.

The only thing that I don't like about these saws is the saw dust control - there isn't any. Most of it will land on that shelf. The rest will go everywhere. There is an after market bag that attaches to the legs where the shelf is located, to collect what falls straight down, but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully.

I hope you get it before someone else grabs it. This is one of the better used table saws and it's worth $200-300 in that condition, not even counting the value of the extras.. You could sell the motor, fence, miter gauge, and the other accessories and turn a good profit if you decide not to keep it.

Charley

+1
Buy it quick, if it works.
 
#25 ·
Dunno about anyone else, but still have not seen a price.

When you saw, do not stand in line with the blade. I know that utube videos show supposedly intelligent people doing that all the time. But guess where any kickback will go if one happens. A clue, it is not going to go into the wall behind you.
 
#26 ·
Welcome, Rx88! Are you a pharmacist? Just curious.
On the saw thing, yeh, even if you have to spend a day cleaning it up, still sounds like a good deal. As Charley said, with the Unifence it's a steal.
The fact that the owner went to the trouble of buying and installing the Unifence would suggest that he was serious about his woodworking. Maybe he'd give you a short tutorial?

"... but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully."
Charley

You really only ned to close in the front, bottom and two sides, I've left the the back of mine open for airflow. I have a 4" dust collection ftg. installed in the bottom panel and it works fairly well. Not perfect but waaaaay better than doing without dust collection.
Has anyone mentioned yet that this isn't an inexpensive hobby? :)
 
#27 ·
Wow, Charlie laid it out nicely. I think you're going to be happy with your saw. Since you're getting started, I've attached a pdf of the things and lessons that helped me accelerate my learning curve. Hopefully it will help you avoid some of my expensive mistakes. One of them is buying gadgets that may even be nice, but with the table saw and a good fence, many of those gadgets are really unnecessary.

I have a thing about breathing sawdust, and that saw tosses sawdust all over the place. I found a cloth bag that included snaps. You attached the male side onto the saw. It catches the sawdust from under the saw. It also fills up pretty fast, so you check it often. Since you're starting the hobby, you might keep your eye out for a large shop vac. It will attach to many of your future tools. If you want a simple but surprisingly effective dust collection (DC) setup, you can get a Dust Deputy cyclone device that separates most of the sawdust and nails and chips and drops it into a drum or large bucket. Here's a picture. The bucket will save a small fortune in filters for the shop vac., which without the dhip separator, fills with sawdust in minutes. You'll probably use this for a long time.
 

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#29 ·
I ran a quick search on the Delta 34-444 and if that is the one you are looking at, it should be a winner at that price. That assumes of course the caveats pointed out re rust etc. Solving the sawdust issue shouldn’t be a big problem either.

In the 70s I looked at a Delta TS where the arbor was on the motor. Stay away from that package, Delta’s quality control on mounting the arbor flange was virtually nonexistent.

Enjoy and welcome to the forum.
 
#30 ·
That looks like a nice saw for a good price. I built up an old Delta contractor saw a few years ago. This place has all the fine tuning parts you may need.
https://www.in-lineindustries.com/

You can add machined pulleys and link belts which will make the saw very smooth running. They also have blade PALs which allow good blade adjustment. I would start with what you have and see if anything has to be replaced before modifying the saw.

I have a thread on this forum with my Delta contractor saw if you want more info.
 
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