Compond Miter Saw Blades? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of material to digest. With the TS I've gotten a number of the Forrest blades and one Freud Glue Line which is dead nuts straight and smooth, all of which I've been extremely happy with. I had also seen Ridge Carbide blades at the Woodworking Show this spring but wasn't ready to buy any more blades yet. I just hadn't paid a lot of attention the the SCMS because I wasn't using as much at that point. As far as how I'm making the cuts I always do a shallow top cut and then the full cut down front to back.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
Had that 12 inch model and had a lot of blade deflection. Switched to full kerf blades and it helped some. Got rid of the saw and went with a 10 inch bosch instead. Currently keep a full kerf glue line blade on it. Baby behind smooth cuts. Also learned to pull the blade toward me to make a shallow first cut, then push it back for the full cutoff. This gives the sawdust a channel to fly out of so sawdust doesn't just go flying every which way. I have also used in the past an 80 tooth full kerf on the saw and got excellent results. The Glue line blade is really a rip blade at heart, but man, does it do a nice clean, smooth cut!

If you can manage it, a stiffener also helps keep the blade from deflecting. The problem showed up when trying to make angled cuts, eg: 45 degree miters for picture frames. Showed up on the 12 inch blade, no problem with the 10 inch. I tend to use Freud blades, the industrial models. Last forever and many sharpenings because the tips are thicker than the cheap models. Lots of good advice here.
Tom if you are using a rip blade on a miter saw then you need to be exceptionally careful because the high positive hook angle wants to grab and lift the work piece when the teeth make contact. If you read the blade brochures like Freud puts out you'll see that any blade with lots of positive hook are not recommended for use of miter saws.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:38 AM
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Tom if you are using a rip blade on a miter saw then you need to be exceptionally careful because the high positive hook angle wants to grab and lift the work piece when the teeth make contact. If you read the blade brochures like Freud puts out you'll see that any blade with lots of positive hook are not recommended for use of miter saws.
Thanks. I am very careful on hold down with that saw. I think the habit of making that first pass toward me helps this. I just did several days of cutting to exact length for the platform frames using that method without a hitch.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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