adapter for bench grinder - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 01:03 AM
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Thank you Guy,any safety advise is good advise. I once heard of a bench grinder wheel shattering & a piece hit the corrugated iron wall with such force,it went right through.As Charles said,people have been killed . Jamesjj777746

You can't drive a bridge spike with a tack hammer(so I'm told)
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
To adapt from 13 down to 1/2"? I've seen lots of various adapters to go up in size but not to go down.
FYI, not sure this helps, but these are the what you like to call them. I was speaking of.
Depending on style of disc, or accs. he plans on using with grinder. There are a few styles to choose from.
These or these, Both are at HD in the grinder area (usually under the freud and or Ryobi branding (for that store)
https://www.amazon.com/Reducing-Bush...ateway&sr=8-15

https://www.amazon.com/OD3-1-Grinder...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Perhaps I am wrong on the matter, but we are talking about a 1/16~1/32 of an inch. Actually in mm, it is 0.3mm
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 10:13 AM
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Brian he wanted to go from 13mm to 1/2". 1/2" is smaller than 13mm by that .3mm. You can't use a bushing to go smaller, only larger.

He got a bushing to go up to 1" and is going to try and find wheels in the right OD and ID that way. The only other viable option is finding 13mm ID wheels.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 10:36 AM
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My thought too,is to go with a larger ID wheel and make /buy a reducer bushing to fit on his lathe. Another thought is to remove the arbor from the motor and set it up in his metal lathe either between centers or chuck one end, turn down the other,and vice versa. He is only looking at taking off .15mm to make it work.

Just a suggestion.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
My thought too,is to go with a larger ID wheel and make /buy a reducer bushing to fit on his lathe. Another thought is to remove the arbor from the motor and set it up in his metal lathe either between centers or chuck one end, turn down the other,and vice versa. He is only looking at taking off .15mm to make it work.

Just a suggestion.
Herb
agreed, but I wouldn't use a chuck, unless it's a cnc chuck, because they are very inaccurate. I'd use a collet instead of a chuck. or between centers.. also, regarding the plastic reducers, you can take light cuts at a time with a boring bar, and get good results.. it's better to make your own, and chuck up the solid portion of the plastic or aluminum, and bore out and turn to the sizes you need then cut it off..
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 10:21 PM
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I agree with all you said, I was thinking of setting up with a 4 jaw chuck and a dial indicator (old school) to get the shaft centered correctly, I know that 3 jaw chucks are known to not be accurate. The last option you give sounds to me the best way to go.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
I agree with all you said, I was thinking of setting up with a 4 jaw chuck and a dial indicator (old school) to get the shaft centered correctly, I know that 3 jaw chucks are known to not be accurate. The last option you give sounds to me the best way to go.

Herb
I've made many thousands of parts for military applications, and know what works.
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