Joining boards along their length - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fizgig View Post
Hadn't thought of a spline. That would be a long spline, almost 1600mm long.
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Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
You are asking how to make the boards longer not wider. The way it is done is with finger joints. You can buy a bit or do it on a saw.

https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/fingerjoint.html
to build for length an FJ butt joint is the way to go..
but I believe he wants to go wide...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I splined 2 seven plus foot birch boards together once for a mantle top using a 1/2” wood spline. You need to get the glue in as fast as possible at that length so more hands can be an asset.
use a slow set glue...

https://www.garrettwade.com/slo-set-glue-pt.html
Titebond Slow Set Wood Adhesive - Franklin Adhesives and Polymers

switch from yellow woodworkers glue (like Titebond or Elmer's Carpenters' glue) to a white all-purpose glue (such as Elmer's Glue-All).
Another option is to use a hide glue or a powdered plastic (urea-formaldehyde) resin glue.
Both of these glues set up slower than yellow glue and are just as strong.

go w/ an RF welder/curing...
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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 01:21 PM
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[quote=Biagio;2054869]
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Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
You are asking how to make the boards longer not wider. The way it is done is with finger joints. You can buy a bit or do it on a saw.
/QUOTE]

I understand it to be that he wants a board 1600mm long and 450mm wide, but the standard width is only 405mm. Hence he wants to join two boards of 405mm along their long edges, and then cut off the extra. The question is whether to have the joint in the middle of the board, or to one side (i.e. one of the joined boards would land up being only 45 mm wide).
If this is the base of the cabinet, and not particularly visible from the inside of the cabinet, I would opt for the simplicity of the unequal widths.
he could FJ the length..
that would make for a ferociously strong connection...


This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 10-13-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 01:49 PM
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Given the sizes, I'd considr getting a 1/4 inch slot cutting bit--not expensive, cut the slot face down, or if you must do it freehand, face up with as wide a base as you can get on your router or at least an edge guide. This string has been very thorough.

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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 01:53 PM
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Given the sizes, I'd considr getting a 1/4 inch slot cutting bit--not expensive, cut the slot face down, or if you must do it freehand, face up with as wide a base as you can get on your router or at least an edge guide. This string has been very thorough.
might want to think a bit more on using an RT... the board is a bit long for one and could easily become unwieldy...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Last edited by Stick486; 10-13-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
use a slow set glue...

https://www.garrettwade.com/slo-set-glue-pt.html
Titebond Slow Set Wood Adhesive - Franklin Adhesives and Polymers

switch from yellow woodworkers glue (like Titebond or Elmer's Carpenters' glue) to a white all-purpose glue (such as Elmer's Glue-All).
Another option is to use a hide glue or a powdered plastic (urea-formaldehyde) resin glue.
Both of these glues set up slower than yellow glue and are just as strong.

go w/ an RF welder/curing...
Using a slower glue helps but even then the water in the glue can cause the wood to start swelling after a few minutes which can make a tight fit turn into too tight a fit. I think if I were to do boards that long again I would use a polyurethane glue (provided it has a long enough open time) and then spritz on the water needed for it to set and clamp it right away. I think the p u glue is less prone to make the wood swell than water based.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 03:00 PM
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Using a slower glue helps but even then the water in the glue can cause the wood to start swelling after a few minutes which can make a tight fit turn into too tight a fit. I think if I were to do boards that long again I would use a polyurethane glue (provided it has a long enough open time) and then spritz on the water needed for it to set and clamp it right away. I think the p u glue is less prone to make the wood swell than water based.
PU glues has been discontinued here...
I like weldbond or RF...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 05:07 PM
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PU glues has been discontinued here...
I like weldbond or RF...
Interesting. Why has PU been discontinued? Environmental concerns or more basic reasons?
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 06:36 PM
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Interesting. Why has PU been discontinued? Environmental concerns or more basic reasons?

discontinued in my shop, not in general..

Parts being glued with polyurethane need to have a tight fit to be strongly joined. polyurethane is not a good gap filler at all which compromises strength.
As it sets it froths up and the froth hasn't any strength.
In very dry areas (low humidity like here) it requires moisture to set or it can set very slowly and not reach it's full potential.
Because it is sensitive to humidity in the air and the wood's MC, setting times are all over the map.
Because it tends to foam and squeeze out. If not tightly clamped everywhere the parts can be forced apart by the foam, weakening the joint.
The foam gives the illusion of gap filling, but there is no strength.
I believe that it hasn't the strength of PVA glues......

After its cured it is very chemically inert and safe but the intermediate phases are it is toxic and an irritant. cause allergic reactions. This begets polyurethanes have to be handled carefully, kept off your hands and not breathed in too much. do a search for the MSDS's of various brands to get more information.

Read the warning label: Contains isocyanate containing polymers. Contact causes eye irritation. Prolonged or repeated skin exposure may cause allergic reaction, irritation and sensitization. Contact may stain skin. Do not allow eye contact. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with skin.

short shelf especially after opening and they are EXPENSIVE...
It is messy and sticky to use and always seems to get on everything.
Polyurethane is difficult to clean off hands, (gloves are highly recommended).
it takes Acetone or lacquer thinner to clean tools while still uncured.

it's not worth the extra work and hassles so I stopped using it all together...

this does does apply to construction adhesives such as PL Premium which I'm a die hard fan of......
and I'll stick w/ Weldbond...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 08:21 PM
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We used to see people on the forum say they used p u glue because it would foam up and fill the joint but you are correct when you say that the foam has no strength. It must be a tight fitting joint for it to work. The websites about it used to say as much but they removed those parts because people believed otherwise and they were selling more glue as a result. If you have a tight fitting joint then the foaming action is supposed to drive the p u glue into the wood grain making a stronger joint. But if it isn’t a tight fitting joint it won’t be a good idea. Then you need a glue with high solids content which I think might be be Titebond 3 but I’d have to check that to be sure. Lee Valley makes a GF glue (gap filling with high solids content) but if you use it on tight fitting joints you risk splitting them. Or having glue push out end grain on something porous like red oak from the hydraulic pressure in the joint. (VOE speaking here). This once again reinforces the statement that no one glue solves every problem and you need to use the right glue under the circumstances you have. I keep about 6 around that I consider essential but I might keep more if I could focus on woodworking all the time.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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