Help resawing - Router Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help resawing

I saw a reindeer template on WWGoA that seemed simple enough so I downloaded it, printed and traced onto a 2x4. The video showed how easy it was and said it used a 3/16 blade with 10 tpi. I couldn't find that in the local box store but did want a new blade as I still have the original on my bandsaw when I bought it, used, and have used it for a little bit of aluminum, so figured a nice new blade would make it easy. I ended up buying a 1/4 inch with 15 tpi. I new this would probably take a little longer cutting so figured I would just take my time and it would be fine. Well, I'm getting frustrated and the blade is twisting awfully bad. I can't seem to keep it straight. Do I need a thicker blade? Is this one just not sharp although it is new? Just a no name brand from Lowe's I think. I kept adjusting the tension more and more and that really didn't seem to help, the blade deflects from front to back and twists so having a heck of a time. Any help would be appreciated. I suspect I need to adjust everything to be just right, but is my little 9 inch delta just to small to resaw a 2x4 in the long direction? I"m not opposed to get a nicer one as I got this used and had to replace the gear that had broke. About $30 and some time invested.

Takoma Park, MD
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 01:26 PM
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First make sure you aren't trying to cut a narrower radius than that size blade is capable of: Bandsaw Blade Radius Chart - Ravenview Next is the blade itself. More teeth usually means less set on the teeth so that will make a narrower cut which makes turning harder. You might be better off with fewer teeth. I think the rule is that there should be 3 teeth in the cut at all times. Maybe someone else can confirm that. You should be able to feel the difference in set from one blade to another with your fingers. Fewer teeth mean smaller gullets for the sawdust to collect in while the tooth is in the board. Once they fill up it gets harder to steer the blade. You say the blade was deflecting forward to rear so it sounds like you don't have the thrust bearings set properly. You should just be able to see light behind the back of the blade and the bearing. Once the blade has been pushed against the bearing for a while during use the back of the blade will start to flare out so you need to hone the ridge off (with a hone while the saw is running). That ridge can also keep the blade from turning as tight. It pays to watch this video of Alex Snodgrass adjust a bandsaw.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 01:30 PM
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Keith,Sounds to me like you have the wrong blade. I use a 3TPI X 1/2" or 3/8" wide blade for resawing. You are sawing through 3 1/2" of material so take it slow, set your guides and tension so the blade doesn't twist and runs true. You can usually feel and hear the right feed rate, drop your guides down to about 1/2" above the cut.

For ripping the fewer teeth the better, 15 TPI is for metal or hard thinner material.
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Last edited by Herb Stoops; 12-24-2019 at 01:33 PM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 02:52 PM
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What Charles and Herb said...

That video will also show the Carter guide which is extremely useful for small blade cutting/shaping...wait til you see the reindeer he makes in the video...
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 07:34 AM
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The bandsaw seems to be one of those tools that is a bit finicky about proper setup and that means blade tensions, alignment on wheel, proper type of blade for material and cut radius, and bearing (guides) setup. Mr. Snodgrass is a wizard when it comes to the bandsaw. I saw him in person doing his bandsaw clinic at a local woodworking show last spring. In this video he goes over setup and shows you how to set yours up properly for the best and safest cuts. Alex knows his way around a bandsaw for sure. Watch it a few times to get it all and I think you'll get a better result but I also think you have the wrong blade. Suggest trying what George (WWGOA) said they were using.

And I shouldn't have to say this but I did get called over to a friends house to remedy, always make sure the blade is properly installed......teeth go down. It is possible for the blade to get inverted and the teeth end up facing upward. Just saying it happens.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 08:50 AM
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I doubt that you will be able to resaw with a 9" bandsaw. I have one of those small ones that I keep a 1/4" blade on and use it occasionally. The small saws are not built stiff enough, they are not powerful enough and they cannot take wider blades that are needed for resawing. The Snodgrass video really doesn't apply to these saws.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 01:32 PM
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I'm not sure what you are doing is resawing. Sounds like you are cutting out a reindeer out of a 2x4 which requires some pretty tight corners hence the suggestion for a 3/16" blade. I've done that reindeer and they aren't kidding about using a 3/16" blade. I know it doesn't sound like much of a difference between 3/16 and 1/4" blades but when cutting tight radii it s a BIG difference.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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I think you are right. A 3/8 blade with fewer TPI, maybe 6 should work much better. My saw is so cheap it doesn't even have a thrust bearing. It's weird. I'm surprised I haven't run into this problem earlier, but I guess on thinner wood it wouldn't be noticeable. I think I'll move up in the world of band saws and sell this one cheap on craigslist, but first may try to finish this little project with a better blade. Oh, it was a bosch so not a crappy blade.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019, 04:20 PM
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I'm a little confused - are you trying to cut out a reindeer or cut thinner stock from the 2x4 (resawing)? If you are resawing, you could do a 2x4 on a table saw. On a 10" TS, you can get up to around 6 inches by making 2 passes.
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