So Woodcraft had a special w/$50 off their Wood River block
plane and I had been needing to replace my FIL's old broken Stanley so I thought I'd give it a try. Got it the Thursday before Christmas and just took it out of the box today. Not being all that fluent with hand planes but having seen a great many videos and read a few guides on them I decided to prep it for some readiness.
As I have heard a number of times it's best to hone the blade on any and all planes, both new and old. Old because many have never been setup right from the beginning. I checked the plane's sides for square and the sole for flatness. Sole is in good shape and flat. Next I took the blade and flattened the back using my very course, course, fine, and extra fine DMT diamond stones
Didn't take a lot and I paid most attention to the last 1/2" or so. I used my new Woodpeckers sharpening system and set the blade in the fixture for the 25 degree bevel it required and proceeded through the grits. After the fine grit was finished I took it back to the setup block and set it for 27 degrees to give it a 2 degree micro bevel. Then I lapped the blade on leather and a lapping compound giving it a mirror finish and removing the burr.
So far so good. Then of course it's time to test the results. Keep in mind that I'm really new to hand planes so I set a piece of soft maple in the vise and take a few passes at it. Here's where I run into trouble. I can clearly see the blade and referencing it to the adjustable toe make it parallel then tighten the lever cap. Here's an issue, when the lever cap is down it's impossible to adjust the blade. If I loosen the screw any it seems to be too loose. Making micro adjustments seems to get me nowhere slowly. As there is no side to side blade adjuster I move it by hand and make the blade adjustment, then tighten.
Shouldn't I be able to make adjustments with the lever cap down in place? On my Stanley #62 Jack plane
with the thumb screw all the way down it seems too loose but I can make adjustments to depth of cut and the angle of the blade without it losing positioning. I seem to be missing something very basic and needed. Clueless would be accurate. I admit the jack plane is cutting well and gives me good thin ribbons while the block plane needs something.....I get thin shavings on about 1/3 of the thickness of the board. That's why I checked the blade to be square to the toe and sole.
Hints on making these work as expected other than giving them to someone who knows what they are doing?