Preferred Dado Blade - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Default Preferred Dado Blade

So down in the shop yesterday and haven't used my dado blade for a good while but gave it a good workout yesterday. The blades are clean and sharp but for the life of me I can't seem to get a clean smooth cut. I have the Freud SD208 I bought almost 2 years ago (3/17) and I've never been happy with the quality of cut.

Now I also have a Oshlun Box Joint cutter set that leaves a very nice clean cut every time but of course can only cut smaller widths, 1/4" or 3/8" depending on how the blades are oriented or use a single blade. I could use this blade(s) and make multiple cuts or just get a decent dado set. I've looked at others and one of the bad things about blades is you really can't try them to see how well they do. Most of my blades for my Sawstop PCS are Forrest and I have great cuts with these. I do have a Freud Glue Line Rip blade that leaves a glue ready smooth cut that I love.

So question becomes, money aside, who makes a great dado set that gives clean/very clean cuts? Anyone have the Forrest Dado King and is it worth the $259? I should also mention that this set "This Forrest carbide saw blade set has a 30-day money back guarantee; Made in USA". Or just use what I have an get a router plane? How well does a router plane work on plywood?

Last edited by sreilly; 12-30-2019 at 08:29 AM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:00 AM
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Steve,

I have a Freud adjustable width dado set that is nice for fine tuning the width of the dado, and it's expensive, but it doesn't leave a smooth bottom in the dado. I have the Freud SBOX8 box joint blade set that's much like your Oshlun, that I use frequently for making box joints because it does leave a smooth bottom in the dado cuts. A couple of times recently I have wanted to cut some 3/4" wide dados with smooth bottoms, and decided to use the 3/8" setup of the Freud SBOX8 blade set along with my Microjig Match Fit Dado Stop, and it worked well for me. It took a couple of passes for each dado, but the bottom was smooth and the dado was the correct width.

Do you have a Match Fit Dado Stop? They are easy to use and work quite well. You will find many other uses for the dovetail clamps that come with it too.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:01 AM
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I can't help you with your direct question on the dado blade or router plane. Though, I can't imagine a plane working well cross grain.

I gave up on dado blades a while ago instead use a router jig for exact dados. Always hated setting up my TS for the dado blade - wastes time and monopolizes the TS.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:06 AM
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I have the Freud SD508...
no qualms.. at all...

it is a far different creature than the 208...
the box joint set are a different animals...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Steve,
Do you have a Match Fit Dado Stop? They are easy to use and work quite well. You will find many other uses for the dovetail clamps that come with it too.

Charley
Or you can make a Kerf Maker.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 12:04 PM
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I have the Oshun dado set, and it give me clean cuts. I especially like that the chipper blades have 4 teeth.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 02:47 PM
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I have the Freud SD508...no complaints...

You mentioned a router plane...are your unclean cuts on the bottom of the dado or the sides where it enters...?

The router plane will clean up the bottoms of dado cuts very nicely...however, if using on plywood, you may have a problem when you get to the glued portion between the layers where one layer ends and the other begins. If you're using good ply, you should not have a problem using a router plane.

If you do some shopping (eBay, FB Marketplace, Craigslist, etc) you may find an old Stanley router plane that will be to your liking.

If not, there's always Veritas (I have both...love 'em both)...

Nick

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 03:09 PM
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@sreilly

Steve...don't forget about using the router with a dado jig... see https://www.routerforums.com/portabl...ig-stairs.html

I made that jig adjustable so that it can make grooves/dados at any angle to the wood piece...

Slap your piece between the slides, set it to 90*, squeeze it together and, "viola", EXACT fit...this will take care of any imperfections in the wood width...

The base the router sits on is precisely cut so that a specific router and that router's specific edge is used as the guide. It was zero-clearanced when built.

You can also eliminate the hassle of adjusting for 90* by making the same jig fixed...

Just another thought...

Nick

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 03:34 PM
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Phil; yes on the TS time issue. In my case I have a love/hate relationship with the DIMAR OEM shims. The holes are for all practical purposes pretty much exactly the arbor size...it's a royal p.i.t.a. getting them to slip onto and off the arbor.
I think I'll simply shear a radius cut into each one, unless there's some really good reason not to (?).
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilBa View Post
Or you can make a Kerf Maker.

...nice and simple...thanks for sharing...

Nick

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