#6 Stanley Bailey Plane - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 10:00 AM
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it's necessary...
but leave the grinder out of the picture...

hardley any spaks and the metal getting warm is the cue..
the body of iron may only get warm but IWTB that the edge got hot..

w/ the corner not flattening, is it bent???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 01-04-2020 at 10:05 AM.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 10:29 AM
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I replaced a stock iron with a Hock and it was a big improvement. Stick's point about heat buggering up the temper is worth considering. If it's off square by 1/8th inch, it's probably been ground by someone who didn't know what they were doing and they may have overheated it long before you got it. I worked with a carpenter a few years ago who hadn't a clue about sharpening.

That is a really nice plane and after cleanup, deserves a good iron. If you have an engineer's square, check to make sure the sides are 90 to the sole before you spend any money on a blade. BTW, you can email Hock to get their advice on your best choice for that particular plane. I thoroughly enjoy using any plane, and we forget that for most of history, planes did a LOT of the work.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 11:05 AM
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I have Hock irons...
but I suggest you go to the head of the class w/ a PM-V11 ...
Stanley/Record Bench Plane Blades made by Veritas

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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So it seems I may have missed something else. I took Stick's worthy advice and used a coarse git sandpaper to get the iron with good scratch marks across the entire front end which is about 1.5-2" back. Way faster than the extra coarse diamond plate. I took a 60 grit belt sander belt, cut it, and clamped it to the workbench that does have a flat surface.

I ran the iron with the entire iron on the paper lengthwise a few times and that's when I noticed the area back where the chip breaker screw goes didn't have a scratch on it. The iron is flat 2/3rds of the way and then bends slightly up at the top of the iron. I'm not sure if this is the result of the chipbreaker or if it's usable in this condition. I can see where tightening everything too tight and leaving that way may have some consequence but I haven't seen this before. That said maybe I have and didn't notice.

So is this usable? Do I need to address the rear warpage? It will lay flat in the vise but springs back when not in the vise. The Lee Valley Veritas PM-V11 iron is out of stock till 2-28 according to the website not that it's critical to have at this point as I have more to do but the question remains do I try to do anything more with this iron? Inquiring minds.....you know...
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 08:22 PM
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get another iron...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 12:15 AM
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Nice find. Sounds like you should be able to recover that blade.

I scored a Stanley Bailey No. 3 at a bamboo fly rodmakers gathering last Oct., for $40. I didn't actually know what I had. I showed a photo to a friend who collects vintage hand tools, in particular chisels and hand planes. He got started with tools he got from his grandfather.

He said this Bailey was probably made in the 1920s. I am impressed with what good shape it is in, if that is the case. He has one from sometime in the 1880s, I think he said, again, that was his grandfather's.

While at that bamboo rodmakers gathering, one accomplished maker presented on sharpening hand plane blades. He only demonstrated with Veritas PMV11 blades as that is all he uses now. Said they sharpen really easily and hold an edge longer than Hock blades. I really want to get some, but for that kind of coin, they'll have to wait.

I sharpen a lot of stuff, using a Tormek T8 system and jigs. I also recently added a Viel 1x42 belt sander and installed a variable speed DC motor on it. I modified that by adding a reversing switch. I can get the belt speed down to almost zero. I have very little trouble heating blades on it, and despite the slow speeds, it cuts fairly quickly. Running the water bathed Tormek grindstones never heats up anything.

Rick
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreilly View Post

1... So it seems I may have missed something else. I took Stick's worthy advice and used a coarse git sandpaper to get the iron with good scratch marks across the entire front end which is about 1.5-2" back. Way faster than the extra coarse diamond plate. I took a 60 grit belt sander belt, cut it, and clamped it to the workbench that does have a flat surface.

2... The iron is flat 2/3rds of the way and then bends slightly up at the top of the iron. I'm not sure if this is the result of the chip breaker or if it's usable in this condition.

3... So is this usable?

4... Do I need to address the rear warpage?

5... It will lay flat in the vise but springs back when not in the vise.

6... The Lee Valley Veritas PM-V11 iron is out of stock till 2-28 according to the website not that it's critical to have at this point as I have more to do but the question remains do I try to do anything more with this iron? Inquiring minds.....you know...
1.... OOOOPS!!!!
the rough paper was to bring the iron's bevel into square very rapidly...
it will take a bit of work to get those gouges polished out...

2,3... it's usable w/ some improvement...

4... that's not warpage...
it's mechanically bent...

5... so straighten it..
place the iron parallel to and at the edge of your work table/bench, w/ the apex up, support both ends equal distance from the apex of the bend...
using a quick clamp, type F, or C clamp*** press down on the apex some... (truly try not to over do it)...
press some, check for flatness; repeat as often as necessary to take you to your happiness...

*** NOTES:

the foot print of whatever you press w/ needs to be narrow to the length of the iron and all the way across the width...
a large diameter bolt laid across the width will work fine for this...
you could use your vise to ''get er'' done...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 08:47 AM
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Keep moving forward with this iron Steve. Do everything you can do to make it at least appear to be usable. Being aware that in the end, it may very well not have been worth the effort. However, what you learn along the way can and will be applied to every sharpening task you face in the future. Time, effort, technique, tempering etc. all can be gained from this one project. You'll be much better equipped to access the worthiness of the next iron you look at. You will most likely end up acquiring an aftermarket iron, which is just fine. Hock's are great, I have several. The Lee Valley PM-V11 by all accounts are well worth the investment if you plan on using your plane quite a bit. The ease of sharpening and long wearing edge make em hard to pass on. I don't have any.....yet *S*

The plane itself looks to be well worth the time and effort required just so long as you get the sole FLAT toe to heel. Small isolated pits and dings will not adversely impact the planes designed purpose. Larger low spots on the sole may affect how the sole rides over the high spots on a board. Depending on their orientation. Left to right low spots may cause the plane to "dip" as it rides over a ridge. Where as front to back low spots may just ride over the ridges.

Don't worry to much about the 90 degress sole to sides stuff. Close will be good enough for this one. Unless you plan on using this plane as a "Shooter" (shooting board) or plan on doing alot of rabbet work with it. Both of which appear unlikely at this stage of your plane use development.

Closely inspect the knob and tote for cracking. They appear to be in nice shape! Clean em up and refinish. Just a good cleaning is all you need for the rest of it to have a really nice looking user for your shop.

Often, knowing what not to do or not worth doing is as valuable as knowing what to do.....

just my 2cents worth...
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
1.... OOOOPS!!!!
the rough paper was to bring the iron's bevel into square very rapidly...
it will take a bit of work to get those gouges polished out...

2,3... it's usable w/ some improvement...

4... that's not warpage...
it's mechanically bent...

5... so straighten it..
place the iron parallel to and at the edge of your work table/bench, w/ the apex up, support both ends equal distance from the apex of the bend...
using a quick clamp, type F, or C clamp*** press down on the apex some... (truly try not to over do it)...
press some, check for flatness; repeat as often as necessary to take you to your happiness...

*** NOTES:

the foot print of whatever you press w/ needs to be narrow to the length of the iron and all the way across the width...
a large diameter bolt laid across the width will work fine for this...
you could use your vise to ''get er'' done...
I should have taken notes....there's too much time between hearing and doing sometimes and the ole memory isn't what it use to be.....not that is was ever great.

I have to get on the elliptical or it won't get done and I'm trying hard to maintain that 4 mile daily routine. Sometimes it gets truncated to 3 but not often. Depends on how those knees feel.

When that's done I'll get back on the iron as it seems I've created some additional work on getting the back cleaned up and shiny again.

Then I'll tackle the squaring with several long strokes on the sandpaper Once there I'll get into my "normal" sharpening routine with the DMT Diamond stones. I have the Duos, I think they call them, with Coarse on one side and Fine on the other with another that has Very Fine and Coarse. I also have the Very Coarse as a separate plate.

That along with the Veritas MKII or the Woodpecker's sharpening system I should be able to get a good cutting edge. What are the chance, and I haven't looked yet, that the lever lock will straighten the iron? After all as long as the iron is flat from the frog down isn't that the most important?

I'll look and see what effect it has if any. I know it was extremely tight when I took it apart.

I'll post any results, good, bad, or ugly as they develop. Now for some sweat..............
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreilly View Post

What are the chance, and I haven't looked yet, that the lever lock will straighten the iron? After all as long as the iron is flat from the frog down isn't that the most important?..............
Trying to break something are we????

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
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