Premium blades generally have thicker tips so you can resharpen them many times. Gives a lot more lifetime and for many of us older guys, the industrial grade blades will surely outlast us.
On Amazon, the blade is $61. Not bad. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industr.../dp/B00006XMTV
I've also added a pix of a zero clearance insert. Use the supplied insert, usually steel, to mark the outline on half inch ply (preferably baltic birch. Drill the finger hole. Lower the blade all the way down, then put the blank insert in place and move the fence over it to hold it down. Make sure the fence doesn't cover where the blade is going to be. Raise the saw blade til it cuts the slot.
Always a good idea to assume your blade is not perfectly perpendicular to the table top. Get a Wixey digital angle finder (pix) and zero it on the table, then raise the blade to full height, put the Wixey on the blade and adjust until it says 90. This is important to do pretty much with every time you use the saw, especially if you are moving the saw for storage. A very slight tilt can make it impossible to assemble and glue up a workpiece.
Look on Youtube for videos on setting up a table saw and take care adjusting the fence so it is almost
perfectly parallel to the blade and miter slot. You want the fence to flare away from the blade by about 4 thousandths of an inch at the far end. That will keep your work pieces from binding and kicking back at you at 100mph. How do I know that?
Make yourself some push blocks and push sticks. 2x4s make good push blocks, but they will soon be shredded on the bottom, but the price is right. Push sticks are usually no more than half an inch thick. Always use one or the other. My habit is to never allow my hands to get less than 4-6 inches from the blade and if I do, I break out in a cold sweat.
Safety stuff. Always unplug the saw any time you change blades. Never wear long sleeve shirts or jacket when you work with the table saw, if it catches on the blade, it will instantaly perform surgery on your arm. Always stand to the left side of the blade, never in line with it. If you are cutting a narrow piece, do not "trap" it between the blade and fence. The safety blade guard that comes with the saw is your friend, so use it and prevent the saw from shooting stuff at you. Wear protective eye wear and hearing protection, and I never cut anything without a dust mask on. period.
The best safety device of all time has to be the Gripper, the yellow push block below, which basic model goes for $60. It allows you to push your workpiece forward, down and toward the fence with one hand and keeps you hand well clear of the blade. And it doesn't get chewed up like the 2x4 shop made blocks.
Sawdust collection is a whole other thing. I talk about it in the attached pdf of the 18 things that helped me accelerate my learning curve. It's long, but has pictures, and it may save you some of the expensive mistakes and poor purchases I made.