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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Hey everyone thanks for your help!

I just started to use it and did notice it needed to few add one to make it safer/easier to use. I already purchased and install the LH and rear extensions.

I am also looking for a different blade as I would like to cut some finer materials like some birch plywood and I have noticed some year out with the current blade.

I am thinking about picking up this CMT blade, would it be a good choice?

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/p...4426657716.htm
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 02:30 PM
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An 80 tooth blade will cut very fine...just remember it will not do as well in ripping (edited). Adjust your feed rate accordingly and don't push too hard.

Also...tear out can be avoided with a zero clearance insert...more improvement over any blade change. A good plywood with a thin outer veneer will have the potential of tear out (on the bottom face) when cross cutting it.

Before you use the saw too much, wax the heck out of it with a furniture wax such as Johnson's...make sure you don't use any automotive paste waxes (silicone).
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 02:44 PM
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I believe Freud would be a better choice...
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU80R010
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU96R010


CMT make very good blades but after experiencing issues/problems w/ their CS (separated tooth brazing) I tend to shy away from them...

note:
the CMT and Freud blade are both crosscut blades...

for ripping....
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM74M010

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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 02:45 PM
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I almost always wind up using my Freud Industrial line, glue line blade. It makes a baby behind smooth cut and will crosscut or rip very nicely. I have an 80 tooth crosscut blade, but rarely use it anymore. That's my choice, anyhow.
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickp View Post
An 80 tooth blade will cut very fine...just remember it will not do as well in ripping (edited). Adjust your feed rate accordingly and don't push too hard.

Also...tear out can be avoided with a zero clearance insert...more improvement over any blade change. A good plywood with a thin outer veneer will have the potential of tear out (on the bottom face) when cross cutting it.

Before you use the saw too much, wax the heck out of it with a furniture wax such as Johnson's...make sure you don't use any automotive paste waxes (silicone).
agreed on the ZC and wax....

note...
the more you buff out the wax the harder it gets and the better it performs...
select a wax w/ Carnauba in it and you will move to the head of the class...

.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WAX V.2.pdf (39.0 KB, 11 views)
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
I almost always wind up using my Freud Industrial line, glue line blade. It makes a baby behind smooth cut and will crosscut or rip very nicely. I have an 80 tooth crosscut blade, but rarely use it anymore. That's my choice, anyhow.
Same here. It's a good choice and not really that expensive, so don't waste your breath saying it pricey (like I first did). Good tools ARE pricey!
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2020, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFlash View Post
Hey everyone thanks for your help!

I just started to use it and did notice it needed to few add one to make it safer/easier to use. I already purchased and install the LH and rear extensions.

I am also looking for a different blade as I would like to cut some finer materials like some birch plywood and I have noticed some year out with the current blade.

I am thinking about picking up this CMT blade, would it be a good choice?

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/p...4426657716.htm
One of the problems buying saw blades is that most of the manufacturers have several different lines and qualities. I think CMT has 5. Construction grade with any of them is near the bottom. CMT also has Industrial (usually everyone's top of the line blades) and ITK and ITK plus. I think there is one more and maybe it's not named. Freud has a Chinese made line named Avanti (avoid them) Diablo (decent quality) and Industrial grade. Amana has a variety and I don't know how to rate them.

A melamine blade will do a nice job on plywood. More teeth and thicker teeth require more power. Each tooth has friction in a cut. The more teeth also the smaller the gullets in between them and the gullets carry the sawdust away. Feed too fast and you can over heat a blade and ruin it (VOE speaking there, I ruined a 60 tooth years ago, it got so hot it warped). You always want the good side up on a table saw. It will have the smoothest finish to it. Adding a strip of masking tape where the cut will go can help too, especially with melamine. Plus the zc insert as mentioned.
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Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 04-23-2020 at 10:24 AM.
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-23-2020, 02:03 AM
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I have both the DeWalt DWE7491RS and the DW745. Either 745 or 7485 is highly recommended.
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-23-2020, 11:14 AM
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Really like Forrest Blades
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-23-2020, 12:21 PM
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Premium blades generally have thicker tips so you can resharpen them many times. Gives a lot more lifetime and for many of us older guys, the industrial grade blades will surely outlast us.

On Amazon, the blade is $61. Not bad. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industr.../dp/B00006XMTV

I've also added a pix of a zero clearance insert. Use the supplied insert, usually steel, to mark the outline on half inch ply (preferably baltic birch. Drill the finger hole. Lower the blade all the way down, then put the blank insert in place and move the fence over it to hold it down. Make sure the fence doesn't cover where the blade is going to be. Raise the saw blade til it cuts the slot.

Always a good idea to assume your blade is not perfectly perpendicular to the table top. Get a Wixey digital angle finder (pix) and zero it on the table, then raise the blade to full height, put the Wixey on the blade and adjust until it says 90. This is important to do pretty much with every time you use the saw, especially if you are moving the saw for storage. A very slight tilt can make it impossible to assemble and glue up a workpiece.

Look on Youtube for videos on setting up a table saw and take care adjusting the fence so it is almost perfectly parallel to the blade and miter slot. You want the fence to flare away from the blade by about 4 thousandths of an inch at the far end. That will keep your work pieces from binding and kicking back at you at 100mph. How do I know that?

Make yourself some push blocks and push sticks. 2x4s make good push blocks, but they will soon be shredded on the bottom, but the price is right. Push sticks are usually no more than half an inch thick. Always use one or the other. My habit is to never allow my hands to get less than 4-6 inches from the blade and if I do, I break out in a cold sweat.

Safety stuff. Always unplug the saw any time you change blades. Never wear long sleeve shirts or jacket when you work with the table saw, if it catches on the blade, it will instantaly perform surgery on your arm. Always stand to the left side of the blade, never in line with it. If you are cutting a narrow piece, do not "trap" it between the blade and fence. The safety blade guard that comes with the saw is your friend, so use it and prevent the saw from shooting stuff at you. Wear protective eye wear and hearing protection, and I never cut anything without a dust mask on. period.

The best safety device of all time has to be the Gripper, the yellow push block below, which basic model goes for $60. It allows you to push your workpiece forward, down and toward the fence with one hand and keeps you hand well clear of the blade. And it doesn't get chewed up like the 2x4 shop made blocks.

Sawdust collection is a whole other thing. I talk about it in the attached pdf of the 18 things that helped me accelerate my learning curve. It's long, but has pictures, and it may save you some of the expensive mistakes and poor purchases I made.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf 18 things illustrated 19-06-16 .pdf (2.58 MB, 5 views)
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 04-23-2020 at 01:07 PM.
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