Joining for extra width - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default Joining for extra width

I need a piece of solid oak 25” wide X 25” tall. and all I can get is 11 1/4” wide stock. What is the best way to join 3 pieces together? All I have is an electric hand planer and a sander to get it smooth once it’s glued together.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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I’m thinking this is a relatively easy project. My thoughts are to make sure the edges are nice and square, apply glue to both edges, clamp together and let sit for a few hours.

What I don’t know would be any little details that an avg person would miss. What would be some of the tricks that only the experts know?
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 02:01 PM
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Yup, best make all 3 pieces out of the same board as to keep the thicknesses the same. Then the belt sander should do the trick,easy does it if you hit it with the plane. Make it a tad wider than finish dimensions so it can be trued up.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 02:35 PM
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Mark; you should seriously consider also using 'cauls' to keep the boards in perfect alignment thickness wise.
It doesn't have to be fancy some 2x2 framing lumber top and bottom across the width...wax-paper between the panel and the cauls to stop them from accidentally getting glued...and them clamp at both ends. Maybe a minimum of two sets on at each end of your panel, but three sets would be better (one set in the middle).
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011...great-glue-ups
Shop Made Cauls
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 03:03 PM
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I wouldn't touch the edges unless you have to. The planer should have planed them square. Cut 3 pieces out of your stock and take the middle piece and flip it over to the other side to alternate grain direction. If the edges are slightly off square that should also compensate for the error. At 8 or 9 inches wide per piece there is still a good chance that the individual sections could warp individually. I was always told to laminate narrow boards together for this reason. Using a slot cutter on a router and grooving the edges for splines would help with alignment but so will cauls like Dan suggested.

If only one side is going to show then I would cut grooves in the back on the table saw about 1/3 the thickness deep and about 1 to 1 1/4" inches apart. That relieves the grain stress and helps keep the panel flat.
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Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 07-04-2020 at 03:06 PM.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 03:11 PM
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spline your joints for flushness and use your router as a joiner...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 05:53 PM
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It's pretty easy to use a router with a split fence to plane material. You put a bit of thick material between the outfeed fence and line a tall bit up with the outfeed fence. Press the wood forward across the bit and it will pick up at the slightly raised side. Shift your pressure against the fence once the workpiece starts on the outfeed side.

For the middle piece, flatten one side, then run that flat side against your table saw fence and trim the second edge. If you don't have a Wixey digital angle finder, be sure you get one so your blade is exactly 90 degrees to the table. Pix below.

I agree on using a spline to attach them. But make certain all three pieces are face down when you cut the spline. That will greatly increase the likelihood the top will be flat.

If the edges are not straight once assembled, you might consider using a straight edge and a circular saw to cut one edge very straight, then flush that against your fence to cut the other side. Or you can use the circular saw on both edges if your table saw isn't wide enough.

Note that spline material should run cross grain to the long boards, so you are likely to have to piece it all together. I would buy a slot cutter the width of the thickness of 1/4 ply and use the ply for a spline.

Hope this helps. I found a video on using the router as a jointer. Pretty simple. Some people use playing cards as spacers, but you can also find 1/16 inch thick spacers used to level drywall. I use padding material backing called chip board, same stuff as on the back of tablets.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 06:21 PM
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hand router method... always done from the face side...
Baltic Birch makes for a most excellent spline...
the slot cutter...
additional bearings in an array of different diameters for a wider range of cut depths are available...



the helix trim bit...these do come in in top or bottom and dual bearings
note the cutters angle...



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File Type: pdf R4 JOINER SUBSTITUTE.pdf (36.4 KB, 21 views)
File Type: pdf DIY TRACK SAW+JOINER.pdf (101.6 KB, 20 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 07-04-2020 at 06:57 PM.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 08:28 PM
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No spline, just glue and clamp. The only reason to spline is to help with alignment, and if you glue them up one joint at a time, it's not that hard to align two boards.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. It looks like this is my Monday project. Two cabinet doors (a first), 2 small panels and 1 larger panel.
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