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Ridgid TS3650 - Your Thoughts

23K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  DesertRatTom 
#1 ·
Hello all. I am still on the hunt for a decent used table saw. I came across a used Ridgid TS3650. The owner claims that it is 8 years old. I was thinking of offering him $300.00 CDN. Your thoughts and opinions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Peter
 

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#5 ·
Hi Peter,

If you look on Facebook Marketplace or Kijjiji, you will find much better deals. I have seen similar quality saws for as little as $100 ! for $300 you can find much better.

Cheers,
Dan
 
#7 ·
BusyBee several years ago sold a saw that looked exactly like that Ridgid except for the colour and it didn't have the lift/wheels in the base. Mine was a terrific upgrade from what I had... direct drive Rockwell with tin table. My observances: The arbor shaft is a little short for a dado stack. I had the starting capacitor fail - cost me just over C$10 to fix that. I haven't had to adjust the fence on my saw since I bought it. I paid C$499 new for mine but the Ridgid would be worth more with the lift/wheels, so it was probably around C$600 or so new.
 
#8 ·
I was going to mention Estate Sales in response to the other options mentioned.
Another option is people that are downsizing there woodworking (health etc. ) that belong to woodworking clubs. Word spreads pretty fast where I am when someone wants to unload their stuff; club members are the first to know.
 
#10 ·
No,if it makes you feel better to have one, you can install an aftermarket one your self. I have not used one in 60 years and am not going to start now.
I will take that back, I used one once for awhile, and after the cut closed up beyond the saw blade and was stalling the blade, i took it off and never used one since.
HErb
 
#12 ·
Thanks Herb. Do you think that an aftermarket one is available for a machine of this age. I believe that the model number is Delta 36-320C. It's possible that the "C" stood for construction. But, I could be wrong.
 
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#14 ·
The most modern saws with integral splitter have the splitter rise in conjunction with the blade and I think at the same height. One of the problems with using a splitter is when you aren't making a cut all the way through the thickness of the piece. If you are just cutting a shallow dado or rabbet for example the splitter will be too high and have to be removed. For the most part on those old saws, my 90s Unisaw included, the splitter was part of the blade guard and some also had anti kickback pawls integrated into the assembly. Anytime you weren't making a through cut it would have to be removed so most of us put them away never to be mounted on the saw again.
stand alone splitters and riving knife height stops shy of the blade height...
 
#16 ·
Also it has to do with the thickness of the blade, a standard width blade riving knife doesn't work with a thin kerf blade.
Herb
but will work the other way around...
 
#18 ·
It looks like the older Delta saw (36-320C) that I posted about earlier may have originally come with a splitter and kickback pawls according to the parts list that I attached below. I came across two other larger units (do not consider buying as they are way out of my budget) that also seem to lack riving knife / pawls. I assume that they are more popular with the smaller portable, big box store models.
 

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#21 ·
Peter...splitters/riving knives were put on virtually all table saws since the mid-80's. Don't think you'll find a TS without one or the other manufactured after that. You may know a splitter is fixed on the insert or the table surface whereas a riving knife adjusts with the height of the blade because of where it is attached.

I have a very old Darra James 12" saw that has neither but I use a short fence to make sure there is plenty of room between workpiece and fence after the cut. I use fingerboards to hold the piece down and towards the short fence for safety and accuracy.

Good luck in your search...
 
#19 ·
I bought a King 3HP saw about 15 years ago and it is still going strong. It's not perfect but it does the job. It's all aluminium so it's lightweight and does not rust. So I can't use magnetic accessories on it, big deal.It's also direct drive, no belts. I have used it on hardwoods and often use Dado blades never a problem.One of my former students recently offered me a free Powermatic 66 that was rough and needed a new motor. I thought about it I mean a POWERMATIC !!!!! but then I thought a motor is probably $300/$400 then the electrician to run 220 to where I need it and who knows what else. I said thanks for the offer but I'll pass. Sometimes it's just better to make do with what we have.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The micro jig splitters are easy to install. I figured it out watching a video. And reading instructions.

I made a zero clearance out of some phenolic I had, used a trim router around the original.

I had to sand down the edges of the phenolic to fit. It works well.

The micro jig splitters is only pushed in.

Can be easily removed if needed.

Edit:
Forgot to mention I bought a ridgid ts2424, I think I paid 250. I'm more than happy with so far.

I totally understand when you say all the good stuff is gone quick online!
 
#23 ·
I had a Delta 1hp direct drive saw for several years. Bought it new for $300 on a clearance about the time Delta sold out to the same company the bought out Porter Cable. It was a little under powered. I got $250 for it. I think it went for near 600 new. It had a splitter that was attached on the rear of the saw, which was a kludge, so I installed the microjig on the inserts. Worked OK.

Definitely set up an outfeed table. There are dozens of simple designs. Rockler had a hardware kit for one that fit the Delta and later fit just as easily on my Laguna TS. The Delta often bogged down and blew the breaker, the Laguna is still 115 v, but it's 1.75 hp, American motor, and doesn't bog down on anything I've thrown at it. Won't be adding 220 in my shop, but many garages today have 220 available for electric dryers, so if you're using gas, that could be tapped BY AN ELECTRICIAN.

I stopped using narrow kerf blades long ago so the Laguna Splitter is full kerf and really easy to install or remove. I suppose you can get pawls for it, but I haven't needed it. I had one kickback way back when I first got the saw. Took two months for the pain to stop, so I now stand off to the side, out of direct line with the trapped piece.

I also have a Shark Guard for dust collection at the blade. It comes on a riving knife that's specific to the saw. It does cut down on stray sawdust, but it is just a little awkward to use, and the mount gets in the way unless I raise the blade an extra inch, which isn't the best way to cut 3/4 stock. Impossible to use for cutting narrow strips.

If the fence doesn't work right, check the aftermarket fences. My two cents.
 
#25 ·
I have had the Ridgid R4510 (granite top) for 10+ years and have been very happy with it. It looks very similar to the one in your pictures. It took some work to get it adjusted and I replaced the miter gauge which helped a lot. I need to replace the fence but I need one where I can attach my router insert. The saw has enough power for the projects I throw at it. The mobile base is great.
 
#26 ·
Thank you for chiming in sir. I made an offer on a used Rigid TS3660 a few hours ago. I'm not holding my breath as these saws tend to fly soon after they hit the Marketplace. The one thing that irks me somewhat is that the LSA is not transferable. Understandably so. And, there is nothing like having a warranty when something decides to go wonky on you.

Have a wonderful day and keep enjoying that saw of yours.
 
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