Shelix cutterhead upgrade for jointer - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 07:28 PM
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So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades.

Art S
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.
Yes, actually, it's not as good now. I guess the little chips are smaller and they seem to come out from everywhere. I may do a little duct tape work on the gaps in the sheet metal to prevent that.

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So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut?

Art S
I sharpened my own blades before so that wasn't an issue for me. The cut is very good, very smooth, but it was also very smooth with sharp knives before. I guess the advantage is now I can rotate the knives 90° and get fresh edges very quickly without doing any setup work like I had to do before.

On this figured wood the cut is glass smooth where it had chunks taken out before, so for this wood it's night and day different.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 08:17 PM
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Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.
I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 08:37 PM
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Is it wicked for me to have jointer envy?
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2020, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Is it wicked for me to have jointer envy?
If I could ever find an 8" Powermatic for a reasonable amount I know where you can find a 6" with new Shelix head to cure that envy...

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:08 AM
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I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.
Just to compare experiences, The long soft wood chips coming out of my old 12 inch jointer (sometimes 8 to 10 inches long) can clog up the intake of of my 5 inch dust collector tubing, but the little 1/2 inch chips from my 20 inch planer never have a problem. Both are connected with 10 feet of hose to my home made dust blower made from an old farm machine's grain separator fan.

I live in the country, so I just blow the chips out into a pile behind the shop. People sometimes come to get them for animal bedding.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:32 PM
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So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades.

Art S
I thought I'd show a few photos of my old Porter 12 inch jointer. Please excuse the dirt and clutter, but it's a working shop and ... OK no excuses?.

The machine had babbitt bearings originally, so after re shimming a few times with only moderate success, I Sawed the babbitt holder castings off with my Sawzall, and ground the surfaces flat with a 9 inch hand held Milwaukee grinder. I had a machine shop buddy make the rectangular blocks seen in the photo, bolted them on using 2 of the holes tapped for the old bearing cap, then installed the new self aligning ball bearings. any vertical errors in mounting the bearings were easily adjusted out using the elaborate 4 corner independent height adjustment on each table. Turning the hand wheel moves all 4 wedges at once as they are all linked together.

People have guessed that it weighs nearly a ton. I made a heavy duty, very low, foot pedal lift, dolly to enable moving it around the shop.h
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM
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Is there a way to rearrange my photos into the sequence I want them in?

Art
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Is there a way to rearrange my photos into the sequence I want them in?

Art
Try these tips, Art -

Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link.

David
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:20 PM
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Try these tips, Art -

Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link.

David
Thanks David. I'll try that. My photos were transferred to router forums OK, just in a random sequence.

So I can post videos here? I don't know if I can figure that out, but I've got lots of short vids about gluing up and turning my multi species bowl.
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