Waxing the Router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2005, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs up Waxing the Router

I recently read on one of the wood forums about waxing the top of the tablesaw. I gave it a try and wow, what a difference in how smooth things glide across it. Soooo.... the question is, what about router table tops and the plate on the base of the router? Since my router table is not metal, nor is the base plate on my router, is there one wax better than another or one wax fits all?

A warning to all my fellow woodworkers. If ya wax it up, be real careful the first time you run something across the surface. I was ready for the friction of my tabletop and before I knew it, I was deep into the piece of wood I was cutting. It could very easily have been my hand. Just be careful.

Gary
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2005, 10:55 PM
 
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Waxing is a good idea, I had not thought of doing it to my router table. Dumb me - I spray my table saw, scroll saw and band saw tables with silicone to make them slide easier. I also use bees wax (from a broken candle) on the blades. That does wonders too. Thanks.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2005, 09:53 AM
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You might want to rethink spraying saw tables ,or anything else in a woodworking area, with silicone. Silicon contamination can adversly affect any finishing you may do.

regards
jerry
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2005, 10:40 AM
 
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I work in the automotive collision repair business, and silicone is the biggest NO-NO that you can do. Silicone will make a great refinish project look like some one did it in their back yard. We use all sorts of wax and grease removers on the vehicle to prepare it for fine refinishing jobs, but silicone is the one of the biggest pains in the rumpus that we deal with. With that being said, I personally would never use silicone in a wood project area as the silicone can be absorbed into the pores of the wood and contaminate a great wood refinish project. Silicone molecules attatch to anything and everything and they are very clingy.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2005, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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So now that we know what wax not to use, we're all ears on what we should be using. Can anybody help there?

Thanks in advance,
Gary
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2005, 10:29 PM
 
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Default Wax

Use any good wood wax. It will prevent rust, ease friction and not hurt the wood.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 07:23 AM
 
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I've been using Butcher's wax on my table saw, chop saw, drill press, joiner, and router table for several years. The wax is easily applied and buffed to give a really nice protective and smooth finish.

Bill
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 08:16 PM
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Would your common variety car wax work? Something like paste Turtle Wax?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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Well, good or bad, that's what I used, and for now it seems fine. I have some bee's wax but I've never gotten it to work for anything so for now it stays in the cupboard. Before I forget, I also waxed the fence. So far, so good. Guess we'll see some day when I finish something.

Now don't get me wrong, but seems to me, whatever wax you use, if it dries and you buff it out, it shouldn't make any difference what kind of wax it was? Only way you would get bad wax on a board is if there was any residue around. I know, just splitting hairs here.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 08:02 AM
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Hi: I have been using a product for years. The name of it is "Top Cote" it contains no silicones or oils. It has no effect on the finishes of a project. It is a spray can and lasts a long time. I spray it on the table saw, jointer, the saw fence, the band saw and the drill press table. Spray it on wipe over the surface and let it dry a couple minutes, the wipe it with a paper towel. Woodnut65
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