Riser for my Grizzly band saw - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default Riser for my Grizzly band saw

Well I bit the bullet got my self a riser for my band saw and what a difference. If anyone else gets one make darn sure you have an extra pair of hands to install one. Didn't try cutting anything today just plain tuckered out. Going to try it tomorrow though on some pine. So results will be coming.
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Glenmore

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 09:04 PM
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Sure wish I had one to but a riser on!

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 09:34 PM
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Hey, Glenmore! If you can get all this new stuff and a new shop by burning down your house, can I borrow some matches?

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 10:03 PM
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I am looking at the same setup. I look forward to hearing your experience with this setup.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 12:42 AM
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I found the real trick is making sure everything is in line when you are done. My bandsaw had a riser on it when I got it, but moving it here caused it to shift. Getting everything back in line was a nightmare. I think mine was a home made job, so that's probably most of the problem. You really need to make sure the wheels are coplanar and that you have the blade tracking properly before you make any cuts.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 08:58 AM
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I'm eagerly waiting to hear how the saw performs Glenmore, I've had little success at re-sawing on the band saw.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 11:58 AM
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CanuckGal -

A properly made riser block will have both the long bolt through the middle to hold tension as well as some kind of mechanical alignment in the form of pins and holes or additional smaller bolts. There may also be a flange of some kind to help spread out the forces.

If your block doesn't have these things, look very, very closely at it and make sure it isn't allowing the upper arm to bow (you would find a gap at the outside edge where the arm and block mate, check with a flashlight or feeler gauges). If it is bowing you need to seriously consider NOT using that block as it isn't keeping the saw rigid when under tension.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 03:36 PM
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Rob, it has a single pin as well as the middle bolt. The problem is I'm sure this riser was home made and the pin was put in at a corner, so if the middle bolt is not extremely tight the pin almost acts as a pivot. This is why it went out of alignment in the first place. It would have been better if it had two pins in opposing corners. I considered putting another pin in once I got it all aligned but I wasn't sure it would be the proper alignment when I switched blades??? The information I got was to set it up using the widest available blade, which was a 5/8". It's dead straight now and I have tightened the bolt down has much as I could but it is very awkward to get at. I have had no issues when I loosen and retension the blade. However I haven't tried it with a narrower blade yet as I mostly just use that saw for resawing.
Do you think I should just go ahead and pin it?

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well used it today didn't try resawing but did some rip cuts with it seems I have to adjust the tension. I guess you can't go with the tension scale with a longer blade. So I'll keep working on it till it is cutting as good as the normal system. Deb mine had 2 pegs and holes to align and a long bolt so it was a simple installation except when I was holding the head of the saw and trying to get the nut and washer on by myself had my son come down just to hold the head while put the nut and bolt together.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 05:37 PM
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Use the flutter method to adjust the tension. Then mark the gauge for each blade you have.
Oh. You don't need a 3/4" blade to resaw. A 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf will do just fine.

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