Now that's a strange one, never saw one like it before. Strange pattern, looks like flooring. What brand is it?
John, I think alumimun would work for you. It would be strong enough(?)maybe and you could work it with hand tools. Really all you would need is a good Hacksaw, couple of good files. The straight cuts you could do with the tablesaw on metal that thin. You would need a carbide blade at least a 100 tooth. If you were to use a course blade the teeth would grab it, with nasty results. I would sandwich it between some 1/2" plywood, that would be the safe way. You sure it's 1/16 that's only .062 ? I believe I would reinforce the un-supported edge with 1/4 aluminum angle, you could pop rivet it together. Any way you could modify the table to take a thicker insert. Wish you were nearby, bet I could come up with something better.
Hi Harry, that's the Ryobi BTS21. The pattern you see is on the mitre table. Being pretty well stuck with contractor saws because of space constraints so I got this one to alleviate my biggest safety issue with contractor saws, namely lack of work area on my side of the blade. Most of them anything more than 7" or so and you have a balancing act on your hands for crosscuts. The mitre table eliminates that, I can get a good 14 or 15" supported out there. But it also comes with it's own set of problems. No mitre slots at all. I didn't expect one on the left, but it doesn't have one on the right either. Put a very nice Incra V120 out of a job, at least for now. The long mitre fence is nice, although I have already lopped off one of the plastic endpieces..
hehehehe,, guess Ryobi was expecting that.
Anyway, table insert is 1/16th, I put the calipers to it. I cabbaged the zero insert by marrying a piece of 20 gauge aluminum angle iron with a hunk of 3/8 polyethelene cutting board. Works OK but doesn't look good. Will likely do it over sometime. It is nice in that the riving knife comes over the back of the machine so no issues with that and the Zero Insert.
With the dado blade I doubt there will be much of an insert at all. I don't think I will be able to get any more than a 3/4" dado stacked because the spindle is so short, also not much space in there anyway. I haven't really put the dado blade on there to see where I am yet but I did load the molding head once. It's the front and back of the molding head that needs the support, especially the front. I tried it with a makeshift insert and one of those big honkin cutters yanked the stock right into the throat.
I suspected it was gonna do that so I was prepared for it.
I bought a metal cutting blade for a 7-1/4" saw, 5/8 arbor. I think I'll screw the 16 gauge steel to a piece of 3/4 ply, set the blade just higher than 1/16 and run the assembly face down on the table saw to at least get length and width. I can make the cut out with a jigsaw and die grinder. Seems like the safest way.
Oh well, first pic is the mitre table, second with version 1.0 of the table insert. Last is the open throat.