table saw blade creeps off line - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default table saw blade creeps off line

Hello,
I have a problem with my tablesaw. First, I set blade with a steel square to 90 degrees, measured from a tooth to fence, moved tooth back and measured again, all fine. My miter gauge is square at 90 degrees. I have a gadget on the miter gauge that clamps down the work piece. My table top is waxed with buther's wax. I figure all is square and smooth.
I have a thin kerf crosscut blade and have blade stabilizers. Table runs smooth and doesn't shake a glass of water, just some movement.
Today I crosscut a 12" piece of pine and during the first 4-6" it hugs the line. After that ithe cut starts creeping towards me. When the cut is done I am close to an 1/8" off from start to finish. I never noticed this before because I don't do much cross cutting on it and use my miter saw for that.
It did this on every board I cut. I got it close to square by flipping the board and re-cutting but they are still off, but being I am building some cabinets for the garage I don't want or need boards that angle down to an 1/8 from start to finish. I also cut without the piece clamped down and held it by hand...no help,in fact a bit worses
I can set the saw to rip at let's say 4" and I could probaby rip a hundred yards of wood and still maintain the 4".
It is a Delta 10" contractor saw about fifteen years old, good shape, good belt, pulleys solid and one piece.
I am really stumped by this and have tried checking and re-checking, getting out sawdust etc etc. I have to cut enough wood for three more cabinets AND shelves and really don't need to keep second guessing the cuts and planing them down. Heck, these are garage cabinets but I figured to make them the right way so I can learn how make proper doors.
Any help willl be appreciated.
thanks
Frank in NJ
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:33 PM
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1. How long is the 12" piece you are crosscutting.
2. If the piece is relatively long, are you using a long backer board on your miter gauge?
3. Does your miter gauge fit snugly in the miter slot without any play?

Can you post a picture of your set-up when crosscutting?

George
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City where the west begins.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hello George, I answered your questions in red.
1. How long is the 12" piece you are crosscutting. The piece was 48"
2. If the piece is relatively long, are you using a long backer board on your miter gauge?No I didn't.
3. Does your miter gauge fit snugly in the miter slot without any play?Yes it does.

Can you post a picture of your set-up when crosscutting? No I can't. Camera is being repaired.Will take Canon about two more weeks.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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George...thanks.
I can't use the backer board with the hold down device. It attaches to the miter gauge and only can hold something 3" or so thick. Maybe I should take it off, it doesn't seem to do much at all.
Frank
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 05:20 PM
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Frank
Make a sled. Trying to cross cut 48" long board with a mitre is very difficult. You may not notice but I suspect the board is turning. It shows up part way through the cut because the kerf is giving room for the board to move. In my experience I've found the clamp on the mitre with long boards acts as a pivot point.
Good luck
Wayne
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 05:36 PM
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Frank,

I think Wayne has offered good advice in recommending a cross cut sled. Easy and quick to build, safe and dead accurate to use.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,
I don't have those runners to make the sled and when I tried in the past using oak runners it just didn't work out right. I am not that skilled, plus, I had a bad concussion some years back and well, I just don't have those perceptual skills to do certain things, reading involved plans is one, and forget about making all those jigs. I truly admire all the guys that can up with a jig for this and that, fine tune router bases and such and reinvent the wheel to make it better. I have to always buy them. I have a Masters degree and beyond and have taught Special Education and Science for 30 plus years, but in woodworking I am about in the Fifth grade...maybe. It is very frustrating when you can't "see it" in your head.
I will take off that clamping gadget and use the backer board. That pivot idea of Waynes makes a lot of sense.
Anyone have a good plan for the cutting sled. My son's an EE and is great with "seeing". I have wanted to make precise wooden projects for years and being I am retiring in two weeks and will just take my time and not rush.
Thanks again,
Frank
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 06:24 PM
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Don't set the blade to table angle using the teeth. Use the blade disk, checking between the teeth.

I found an easy way to check a miter gauge.

With a scrap piece 6-8" wide and any length, cut it with the MG set at 90º.
Flip the piece over side to side, but not front to back, and cut it again.
Measure the front width, then the back width.
Adjust the MG until these 2 measurements are the same. That will be a true 90º cut.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 06:40 PM
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Hi Frank,

I certainly understand your limitations as I have several of my own as well. We all learn to adapt and overcome as best we can when and where we can.

Here are a few thoughts on the cross cut sled. First, get some pre made runners such as these from Rockler. Look around for your best buy, this is for example only.

Incra® Miter Slider Bars - Rockler Woodworking Tools

A cross cut sled does not have to be fancy nor complicated. Mine is very simple consisting of 2 runners, a piece of mdf about 2' X 3' and a single 1X4 board datto slotted in at the back and everything at 90* to the blade. Can't get much simplier or easy than that.

Here is a simple plan I found by doing a Google that would work very well.

Crosscut Sled

There are dozens of these free plans out there and you can probably find one that would work well for you, as a matter of fact, this one may do just that.

Let us know if we can offer more help, we are here to support you in every way we can.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 07:14 PM
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NEVER ever hold a piece on a TS with just your hands. Use a crosscut sled, miter gauge.

I agree with using a cross-cut sled. I also recommend that you get a table, sawhorse, something equal to the height of your TS to add for support of the piece your cutting.

After rereading your original post, check your blade that's it's parallel to the miter slots. This can be done with an adjustable square. Your fence should also be parallel to the miter slots. Also, check your miter gauge. I suspect you're experiencing several things happening at once to cause your problem.

Ken

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