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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Default Depth of cut.

I am making some bookcases. I plan on routing the shelves into the sides of the bookcases. Is there a standard depth that is used to do that. I am thinking for strength there must be a certain depth. I plan on gluing the units together. Oh, the units are being made out of 3/4 inch birch veneer plywood.
The other option is to make the shelves adjustable. I thought of that and decided once the shelves are set, I will probably never move them. I have one now that is adjustable and I have never moved a shelf on it. So why go adjustable if it is just for books etc. Also the shelving units will look better side by side if the shelves are all the same height. Just my opinion.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 08:44 AM
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Jigman
I use 3/8 probably more out of habbit than any other reason. Some use 1/4 and say its stronger, I've never noticed any difference or have had any of my joints fail.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 09:01 AM
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Hi Reel

Just my 2 cents

It's best to use the shelve pins, books come in MANY sizes,you will see many book shelves with books laying on the side because they just don't fit, it just takes one book that is over size..if you put 3/4" thick plywood on the back side of the cabinet it will be strong and use 2ea. end parts glued up as one..1 1/2" thick..for the ends ..if you don't like the pin look just cut the blocks up to support the shelves that way you don't need the dado slots..you will still end up 1 1/2" end parts but very strong..your face plate boards will cover the open ended plywood.........

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Originally Posted by jigman View Post
I am making some bookcases. I plan on routing the shelves into the sides of the bookcases. Is there a standard depth that is used to do that. I am thinking for strength there must be a certain depth. I plan on gluing the units together. Oh, the units are being made out of 3/4 inch birch veneer plywood.
The other option is to make the shelves adjustable. I thought of that and decided once the shelves are set, I will probably never move them. I have one now that is adjustable and I have never moved a shelf on it. So why go adjustable if it is just for books etc. Also the shelving units will look better side by side if the shelves are all the same height. Just my opinion.



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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 04:19 PM
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I use 3/8 for permanent shelves. Sometimes an adjustable shelf or two could be combined with a permanent one or two. As Bobj said, cut your edge trim wide enough to cover the pins.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so 3/8 inch is it. I think that is what I will use. I do want the shelves permanent. Now here is the trick I will use. To the eye the shelves will looke the same distance apart but they will be different distances apart. Believe me there will be plenty of room for a oversized book.
The unit I have now has one one permanent shelf in the lower third and the rest are movable. It works fine and I have never moved a shelf.
The one I will put my Tv on will be made a little different. It might have movable in the top third of the unit. That way I can add or move shelves for which ever TV I have on it.
I do like the idea of the strong unit as mentioned above but it is not needed in my application.
Thanks for all the good advice.
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