Tablesaw blade guards - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Default Tablesaw blade guards

Well when we got our tablesaws they all came with the Manufactures blade guard,splitter and anti kick back pawls.

When ripping off a thin slice, say 1/4 in. wide from a 6in. wide board and the 6 in. up against the fence that the off cut would momentarily remain stuck between the guard and the blade.when the stock was passed completly
through the guard would then drop and the 1/4in. off cut would be kicked back like a spear.

The guard that came with the tablesaw is memory.

When ever ripping the splitter and anti kickback pawls are always used as well as feather boards.

Looks like its the aftermarket blade guards just like the mitergage

roy
start square, finish square

Last edited by delroy33; 12-05-2005 at 06:18 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 06:25 AM
 
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Well Roy, I took the whole thing off my JET for a while, until a nice chunk of 3/4" ply shot back and hit the wall so hard it dented it. Then the whole annoying assembly went back ON the saw. I'd really like to have a decent guard etc. but I cannot afford several hundred dollars for one of the fancy ones. I just put up with the junky one that came with an otherwise wonderful saw.
Thank you.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-07-2005, 07:31 PM
 
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Take a look at the Shark Guard, at leestyron.com

Last edited by Routerbit; 12-07-2005 at 07:32 PM. Reason: correction
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-08-2005, 07:11 PM
 
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I like my very old Sears direct drive table saw, It has a very good fence and a blade guard that you can stand up out of the way for those small cuts and then just flip it down when you need the safty. You never have to take it off, But when you want it off like making non through cuts it comes off with two wing nuts ,,Very simple.And great.And all the antikickback and splitters are all there to.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-09-2005, 08:22 AM
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Well guys, I am on the other side of the fence. I don't like a blade guard on my table saw. I've used table saws for a lot of years, and I still have all my wigglers. The main reason I don't use a guard is with my tri-focals I have hard enough seeing what I'm looking at without a blade guard getting in the way too.

Even though I don't use a blade guard, safety is always in the forefront in my shop. I use a wide varity of push sticks and blocks that ensure a safe distance between the blade and my fingers. Recently I've purchased 2 of the GRR-Rippers, by Micro Jig, [URL=http://www.microjig.com]. These are without a doubt the best inovation in safety equipment for use on the table saw in years. They virtually eliminate the possibility of kick back because they grip both pieces as you move the board through the blade. It actually straddles the blade, and you can rip as close as 1/4" to the fence. I think they are great. They also work very well with the router table & jointer as well.

Does anyone else use the GRR-Ripper? If so, I'd like to here your comments on it.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 06:22 PM
 
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pop pop.I allso used to ware tri focals. but I now have some thing new ,It is ground from top to bottom inone smothe cut and that does away with all the lines in your glasses, They are wonderful you should look in to them,It makes a world of differince.
Like I ead I fold my fence up for a lot of cuts, Maybe I will look in to the grr-rippers they sound good.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 09:45 AM
 
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The reason you have the guards is because to many people have lost fingers with the saw. You have to work with the guard to get it adjusted. I have a Sears Contracter table saw it came with a guard like all saws do and it had to be adjusted for the same problems. Some people are very lucky and some are not is it worth a trip to and operating room for a little inconvence. In any case use push blocks and don't let your fingers get close.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 11:23 AM
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Well like pop pop1 and Learning Herb I to don't use a tablesaw gaurd. I have a room issue with mine if I'm ripping anything over 4' long I have to flip the board so a gaurd is not to doable. But like Chuck mentioned I use push sticks for all of my detail cutting of smaller peices. I do watch where my fingers and hands go and if it is just outside of the blade insert cover I use my push sticks.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 08:43 PM
 
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I use push sticks & push pads all the time, I only not use the guard when the cut demands it.Had a kick back 3 years ago that gave me about 32 stiches So as you can guess I am very very cairful.And I never rush or work when I'm tired. If you fight with the TS your going to lose.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-14-2005, 12:46 AM
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Wow Herb that sounds scarey. Where did it rap you. I am going to put my gaurd on this spring I can't cut in my shop no more because it's a tool closet. Now I have to wait for the wife to leave or I pull my pick up out of the car port. To do all my work I have a work bench in the closet just for finishing and small projects. But I'm still not complaining about that the more tools the happier I am.

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