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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default Perfect 45

I am looking for tips and tricks on how to get a perfect 45 on a chop saw. The only option I know of is trial and error.

If it helps I have a Ridgid 12" sliding chop saw.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 02:09 PM
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Leave the saw at the 90 degree mark and make a fence to sit on the table that allows you to cut on either side. Like a sliding table for your table saw, but instead of moving the stock and the slide, you move the saw blade.

I've not done this with a chop saw; I did do it with my radial arm saw and it worked fine.

Even if your angle is off a bit, it will work. If one side is 44 degrees, then the other side will automatically be 46 degrees and make a perfect 90 degree angle.

I used an aluminum framing square for my "fence". I drilled and screwed it to the baseboard. Then I sliced through it with my first cut.

After that I cut each corner with on miter on one side and the other miter on the other side of the blade. With the complimentary angles it will always yield a tight miter.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Packard View Post
Leave the saw at the 90 degree mark and make a fence to sit on the table that allows you to cut on either side. Like a sliding table for your table saw, but instead of moving the stock and the slide, you move the saw blade.

Even if your angle is off a bit, it will work. If one side is 44 degrees, then the other side will automatically be 46 degrees and make a perfect 90 degree angle.
True, the result of the two angles will be 90deg BUT the two miters will be different lengths.

A better solution would be to acquire an accurate combination square and set the miter saw with that.

Perfect joints ALWAYS require some trail and error and some setup time. At least in my world they do..
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 02:49 PM
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Adjust your saw with a speed square (the small square with a 45 from Home Depot or Lowe's) or use one the those used for drafting (office supply store). Use this the set 90* & 45* to fence & table & adjust your pointer on scale. If you are laying the blade over for your 45* cut I like to use a digital angle gauge by Wixey. Also use it for the tablesaw. Put it on your saw table & zero it out then put it on your saw blade. Law the blade over till you reach desired degrees. It's magnetic so it will stick to the blade. It will set the degrees of the blade to the table. You can buy this many different places but here is one source.

Wixey Digital Angle Gauge - Rockler Woodworking Tools

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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I like the idea of a digital angle gauge.

The Wixey gauge has a lot of reviews and looks tried and true.

But, what about the Magnetic Angle Cube on the Rockler website?

rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22143
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:29 PM
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It's the same thing but different manufacture. I think you can even find these at Harbor Freight. I've seen them all over.

James
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jmg1017 View Post
True, the result of the two angles will be 90deg BUT the two miters will be different lengths.

A better solution would be to acquire an accurate combination square and set the miter saw with that.

Perfect joints ALWAYS require some trail and error and some setup time. At least in my world they do..
I don't face these issues. I have two ways to get perfect miters (I was a professional picture framer--so that might explain some of this).

1. I have a dedicated sliding miter table saw. This will turn out perfect miters every time. It cuts miters on both sides of the blade.

2. I have a Lion miter trimmer. This will always bring a miter to true 45 degrees and yield a mirror smooth surface. The smooth surface means less likely glue starved joints.

A note: Corner Weld glue is specially formulated to glue miters (end grain to end grain) and if the strength of the hold of the glue is important then you should try to get your hands on some of this stuff.

http://attractiveframes.com/gluepint.html

http://www.lionmitertrimmer.com/

Last edited by Packard; 01-26-2010 at 03:52 PM.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 06:40 PM
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Here's what I did with the same problem... hth
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 06:53 PM
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Jeremiah... love that avatar..*L*..
just a little sumptin-sumptin to keep in mind when "chopping" away. Use a constant, smooth stroke. Whacking away at your material will throw off the angle no matter how well prepared you are.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 03:04 AM
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I have a dedicated jig for my RAS, but a restriction of about 2" height/depth of blade. I could tilt the blade to 45 degrees horizontal.
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