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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help, bandsaw problem

I have a Rockwell 10" bandsaw. Never used, got it in a garage sale.

Read the books and watched the vidios on tuning but have a problem aligning the wheels. Pics of the saw, wheels and the parts blow up and manual are attached.

I put a straight edge on the wheels as described in the material I studied and the wheels are approx. 1/4" out of allignment. The problem is the top wheel has very little play in it and I am not shure if I can mess with the drive wheel on the bottom.

I would need to move the bottom wheel in closer to the pully on the shaft.
The manual mentions nothing about this and I don't want to tear something up.

Also somebody changed the motor mount and I am not shure why. The manual shows it hanging from the bolts that hold the saw to the stand but it is moved down to the shelf. The original bracket is still being used

The last two pic are the wheels. The one with the oiler is the top wheel.
The level is tight agenst the bottom wheel in two places and the top wheel is off about 1/4" top and bottom.

Anybody have this saw or any ideas.

Thanks
Mike
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Last edited by awoodnut; 01-27-2010 at 06:51 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 07:12 PM
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Hi Mike, I can't really see if you have room to move your drive wheel in... have you tried taking that nut off the wheel to see if there is room?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 07:47 PM
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Mike, rather than moving the drive wheel in, I think it's more common to move the upper wheel out. This can be done with a washer behind it.

Rusty

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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bob, my question was more is it ok to start messing with the drive wheel shaft or is that a problem?

Rusty, The top wheel dosn't have enough play. Maybe 1/8" at most. The nut sucks up tight to a shaft or sleeve and there is no room for much of a washer. I did notice the parts blow up calls for a washer on the inside of the wheel and that is missing, probably accounts for the little play I have.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 09:18 PM
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Am I missing something or are you not supposed to check alignment with a blade mounted and tensioned on the wheels? Otherwise the top wheel blade tracking adjustor is never going to allow the wheel to be in alignment.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awoodnut View Post
bob, my question was more is it ok to start messing with the drive wheel shaft or is that a problem?
Judging by the pic here:

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...andsaw-004.jpg

it looks like your wheels are out of co-planarity by ~between 1/8" - 14". If the blade is in the center of both wheels and the wheels are out by that much, one or both will need to be moved to compensate/bring into co-planarity.

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Originally Posted by CanuckGal
Am I missing something or are you not supposed to check alignment with a blade mounted and tensioned on the wheels? Otherwise the top wheel blade tracking adjustor is never going to allow the wheel to be in alignment.
With the saw first unplugged, and moderate pressure on the blade, you should be able to center the blade on the tires of the wheel by rotating them by hand. If the blade is centered on the wheels, and they are not on the same plane... Houston we have a problem... ...they need to be in alignment.

Found a decent little article at WoodCraft... hth:

Bandsaw Tune Up
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 10:33 PM
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It was just hard to see if the blade was actually on in the pictures when you were checking with the straight edge. I see that in the link above they don't specify that the blade has to be on and tensioned when checking this. That could really confuse people.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't get that the blade is supposed to be on. I will put on a blade and see what it looks like. Hopefully just a dahhh fix.

Thanks
Mike
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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got the blade on and under tension. Got the blade tracking after some trial and error. 1/2" 3TPI Timberwolf, 78 1/2".

The straight edge, close to center of the wheels, touched the bottom wheel top and bottom and the bottom of the top wheel but with tracking set it was 3/16" to 1/4" off the top of the top wheel. Is this ok?

Also when the motor stoped the blade stopped spinning almost imidiatly. Is this normal or is it a sign of bad berrings?

Thanks
Mike
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 01:06 AM
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Sounds like they are definetly out of alignment. The top wheel probably needs that missing washer. That may be all it takes to get it coplanar. Also I noticed in the pictures that the new motor mount makes the motor pully shaft look like it's out of alignment as well. If there is a way you can remount it to the original way that might straighten it out. I suspect it might not be the original motor and that's why they changed the mount. That shaft has to be 90 degrees to the belt and the belt to the drive pully has to be a straight line. This misalignment is probably what's putting the brakes on the blade when you kill the power.
It might take a little work but if you can iron out the kinks you might have a decent saw. I spent a LOT of time tuning mine up and now it's a real gem

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Latin instructions for firewood.

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