I think I want a pin nailer - Router Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Default I think I want a pin nailer

I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 09:01 AM
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Hey Chris..

just an opinion here, but in 3/4" stock, a 1" pin will do more to help keep the stock "aligned" than it will help keeping the stock held together. Pinning into endgrain tends to exasperate the problem as well. If your surfaces are flat and true to each other and there are no forces working to pull them apart, ya might get away with it. I'd still throw a couple clamps on it, just to be safe.

as for air supply, Sure, a air tank will work w/regulator. You might look into the newish CO2 rigs that are becoming more popular. A propane sized tank you can hang from your belt...pro's and con's to this setup, as there is with anything else...Personally I'd shop around for a used small pancake style compressor...
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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So glue and clamps should be all I need? I guess I'm a little worried about the cabinet collapsing on itself. Not that a pin nail would do anything about that, but still.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 09:47 AM
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Hi Chris

The pin nailer is a great tool but not a all in one nailer,I would suggest the pin nailer and one of the brad nailer to go with it, you will need a air tank for both but you don't need a big one to run them.
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This is one of the things you can do with the pin nailer (see snapshot,1" long holding the stock in place ) that you can do with the brad nailer,,,if you hit the pin the router bit will take it out easy..without any damage to the bit
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...fence-0931.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/163890-post2.html

A nailer is just a clamp you could say that you don't need to take off and put away once the glue setup up..

On the brad nailer I would suggest getting one that can put in nails and staples from one tool...

The pin nail will put in 1" pin nails but no head to the nail but that's the neat part of the pin nailer, very easy to hide, I don't know if you use templates but they great for that job you can put the tape away if you use the short pins..

========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocheseuga View Post
I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?

Thanks.



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Last edited by bobj3; 02-12-2010 at 10:27 AM.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 10:10 AM
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For gluing on trim I frequently use this method:

I drive small brads into the glue side of the molding along the length. I then take a wire nipper and trim the brad to about 1/16 of an inch. I apply the glue and use clamps to press the exposed brad wires into the base cabinet.

The brads keep the molding from slipping while clamping. The brads are entirely invisible when the assembly is done. It requires not brad gun or air.

It is a bit slower (I have a pin nailer and I use it frequently), but it yields a nicer result.

When gluing larger boards I will drive 4 brads in near the corners. I apply the glue and do the alignment using the brads to keep everything aligned. Clamp or weight down as required making sure that the boards seat tightly.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 10:43 AM
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You might consider a locking rabbet joint. MUCH stronger.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
You might consider a locking rabbet joint. MUCH stronger.
I was debating that as well. This is 3/4" birch ply if it makes any difference.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocheseuga View Post
I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?

Thanks.
Hi Chris -
The little 23 ga pin nailer is one tool that gets a lot more use than I expected it to. I have the PC 1/2" - 1" pinner and use it all the time. I use it to hold glue-ups while I get the clamps on, hold templates in place, hold assembys for dry fitting.... I also use it to locate reference points for things other than woodworking. ie, installing drawer slides, will pin some scrap to the face frame to support the front of the slide while I position the rear brackets..... and so on. Even with 3/4" stock the pins are tenacious and will hold unless it is a large part. Also there is little or no evidence they are there. I think BJ pointed out in another thread that a drop or two of water will swell the wood grain enough that no filling or sanding is required to hide them. I typically use 5/8" pins as there is usually a rabbet or some other feature that reduces stock thickness enough.
As far as air supply, yes, an air bubble will run one a good long time but you may want to look into a small portable compressor. Not a continuous flow. I've seen small Campbell-Hausfelds at Wally World for $60-$70, about $30 more than a good sized air bubble and you don't have to run out to refill it. I have a 6 gallon Porter Cable pancake that is way more than enough for a pinner but I have some other pneumatic stuff also.
Hope this helps.

Edit - I just reread Bj's post. +1 on the pinner not being a do-all tool. I also use a 18 ga brad nailer and, in some cases the 16 ga finish nailer. Like all tools, they have strengths as well as limitations. However, I put off getting a pinner for quite a while, not being convinced of how versatile it really is..One of those "wish I had known" deals

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocheseuga View Post
I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?

Thanks.
I have the HF pin nailer, and overall I am satisfied with it. It doesn't have the feel or performance that you would get with the more name brand tools, (PC, Bostich, Senco, etc.), but it does the job. I run mine with a pancake compressor but I also have the CO2 system from Lowes and it will power everything up to my 15 ga. finish nailer. I would definitely recommend the CO2 over the air tank.

Tim
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 01:31 PM
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I have the HF Pin nailer, actually have two, the first one took a dive on me and they wouldn't take it back with out the box; bought a second one and put the first one in the box, and took it back, now I have a spare.

I agree with BJ you will end up needing both nailers, one thing with the pins using a 1" pin on hardwood will some times work and other times the pin takes a U turn and the point comes back out right next the nailer. When that happens it's a bear to get them out. I had to go digging and then patch in a couple of places because of the pins doing a U turn.
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