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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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First Name: Bill
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Default jointer blade replacement?

Hello All!
I am new to this forum, I would like a little advise on installing new knifes
on my 6 inch jointer! my question is do i set the blades to the height or the out feed side, and do i bottom out the blades on the rotter , any input would be great. Bill
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 11:13 PM
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Hi Bill

Does this help?
Part 2 - Sharpening and Setting Jointer Knives


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 10:49 AM
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If cutter has knives already installed locate top dead center, (straight edge on out feed side) rotate cutter head so knife travels to 12:00. If knife doesn't touch straight edge try all 2 or 3 to find one , if none then lower out feed side a smidge until knife touches straight edge. Mark cutter head to frame for later reference. Do this for all knives, (even if it means adjusting out feed table again).

Not sure about all Jointers, (some may or may not have loading springs or jack screws), mine has 2 loading springs per knife. If it were my planer, (jack screws) but then I'd use my dial indicators. I lost a spring once and replaced both with old ink pen springs, remember knife orientation before removing, (don't put in backwards).

I used to use round microwave magnets, they grabbed the table and held the knives in place, but one or both my kids made off with them, now I use a 5X5X1/4" slice of mahogany that I weigh down with a dumbbell plate or magnetic feather board.

I suggest gently wedging the cutter head still to maintain TDC. Orient and set a knife in a slot, (my jointer has 4 locking screws) I turn the 2 outside then the 2 inside nut head screws until I feel slight resistance, e.g., (1,4,2,3 ... 4,1,3,2) a smidge each time. This can minimize knife warp and rise. Do the same thing for each knife.

When done remove all the junk and test with a straight edge and hand rotation, you should barely hear a scrape as each knife hits TDC. If one or more sound much louder or not at all reset said knife.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 11:17 AM
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The knives are set up to be flush with the surface of the outfeed table when they are at the top of their arc. (That last part is important..and catches quite a few people)

I ave a few jointer stories on my site, the use and setup one is at the link below if a little reading (photos and video also) would help.

Jointer Basics - LLC

Tom Hintz, Publisher
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 01:43 PM
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I just finished adjusting the knives in my 6" jointer.

I replaced them about a year ago. Hadn't much used the thing since. When I started a recent project I was finding "snipe," (indicating knives too high)as detailed in this thread:

For my machine, it seemed setting the knives not quite 1/3000 of an inch above the outfeed table gave the best results. Higher and I got more snipe. Lower and I got taper. I found taper made the machine all but useless for jointing. A little snipe I could live with. Trying to set the knives exactly at the height of the outfeed table was BAD for my machine.

I finally got it about perfect. It took me three tries in all. Now I get a tiny bit of snipe sometimes(indicating the knives are still just a smidgin too high), but usually not. I am pretty happy with it now.

The method I followed used a table of values relating knife height to the distance a metal straightedge is dragged by the blade. In my case I settled for about 4mm of "drag"(2.6 thousandths of an inch above the outfeed table). The precise value depends on the diameter of the cutting head but the 4mm drag works well for me and likely will for any jointer with a cutting head anywhere near 2 1/2" in diameter. The method is described in this link: Adjusting jointer knives

Terry Danks
Rural Nova Scotia(or Florida)
Nature and Wildlife Photography

Last edited by dawziecat; 03-13-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 03:19 PM
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I set my knives to drag a straight edge 1/8" when the head is turned.

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