Opening can of worms...
I would ask that you supply a little more information, specifically, what size of workpieces are you expecting to deal with.
This is because you have the choice between panel saws and back saws. For small work at the bench, a pair of medium sized (say 14") tenon saws, one cross cut, one rip, will get you through most joinery and stock prep except dovetails or ultra fine joints. The 14" backsaws are a little to unwieldy. If however you are talking about stock break down at a saw bench, then a panel saw would be more appropriate. There a vintage D-8 or D-23 can be had and fixed up pretty cheaply. Or you can spend a little more and buy new equivalents from Lie-Nielson, PAX, BadAxe and others.
I did a little shopping on eBay and came up with an A.C. Atkins 5-1/2 point rip that after a little filing and re-setting will hog through FAST. And a D-23 (11tpi I think) set for cross cut that does a good job. In both cases, less than $50 each including buying some new files and locating a used saw set. Saw vices you can make. Making yourself a saw bench (not the same as a saw horse, lower and wider, about the height of your knee) really makes handsawing a much easier task.
For my bench work I'm using a no-name 12" backsaw (that I'll probably ditch soon, it really isn't very good no matter how I rework the teeth) and the Veritas dovetail saw. That is a sweet saw for the money but you don't have much depth to the rib so only good for dovetails, small tenons and other light work.
I recently got to play with all the Lie-Nielson saws at a LN handtool event and they are all great. Their panel saws were fantastic, now I know how much more work I need to do on my "antiques".
And other other thought, for small bench work, you can get away with only a rip cut filed saw. They will cross cut just fine however you will end up with a bit more jagged edge. That can be addressed using a marking knife to pre-score the work and by adding a shooting board to the post-saw steps.
Closing can of worms...