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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
r32
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Hi all. Ok, so my mom wanted me to help paint her house. Of course I agreed, knowing it really meant I'd be painting and she'd be supervising. I can't turn down mom afterall. Well, of course one thing led to another which led to another and now it's new tile floors and trim moulding.

My question is what nail gun is best for trim moulding? I went down to HD and Lowes and they have a lot. I want to get one that is going to be suitable (hopefully) for building cabinetry in general, and not just for trim moulding. I'm going to need a compressor too.

Her walls also have a bullnose corner! The guys that built the house of course did a sloppy job and there is sealer between the bullnose corners and the trim moulding around them which looks ugly. Anyone seen any easy solutions for bullnose corners with trim moulding? Seems like such a pain to have to cut corner pieces 1" wide and with the gaps it creates, it won't look good.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 06:14 PM
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Hi Michael

I would suggest getting two of them a 16g brad nailer and 18g,,sometimes you will need to use the bigger one and sometimes you will want to use the small one for small trim...most will shoot up to a 2" nail, I would also suggest getting one that can shoot staples from the same gun..for shop work..


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Hi all. Ok, so my mom wanted me to help paint her house. Of course I agreed, knowing it really meant I'd be painting and she'd be supervising. I can't turn down mom afterall. Well, of course one thing led to another which led to another and now it's new tile floors and trim moulding.

My question is what nail gun is best for trim moulding? I went down to HD and Lowes and they have a lot. I want to get one that is going to be suitable (hopefully) for building cabinetry in general, and not just for trim moulding. I'm going to need a compressor too.

Her walls also have a bullnose corner! The guys that built the house of course did a sloppy job and there is sealer between the bullnose corners and the trim moulding around them which looks ugly. Anyone seen any easy solutions for bullnose corners with trim moulding? Seems like such a pain to have to cut corner pieces 1" wide and with the gaps it creates, it won't look good.



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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r32 View Post
Hi all. Ok, so my mom wanted me to help paint her house. Of course I agreed, knowing it really meant I'd be painting and she'd be supervising. I can't turn down mom afterall. Well, of course one thing led to another which led to another and now it's new tile floors and trim moulding.

My question is what nail gun is best for trim moulding? I went down to HD and Lowes and they have a lot. I want to get one that is going to be suitable (hopefully) for building cabinetry in general, and not just for trim moulding. I'm going to need a compressor too.

Her walls also have a bullnose corner! The guys that built the house of course did a sloppy job and there is sealer between the bullnose corners and the trim moulding around them which looks ugly. Anyone seen any easy solutions for bullnose corners with trim moulding? Seems like such a pain to have to cut corner pieces 1" wide and with the gaps it creates, it won't look good.
Hi Michael - If you come up with a solution for the bullnose corners, let me know. I have the same issue and haven't come up with a reasonable way of dealing with the things.
+1 on Bob's suggestions for 16 and 18ga nailers. One caution on the 18 ga. Most you see advertised pretty cheap only shoot 1-1/4" bullets. If you have bullnose to deal with you also have a good layer of plaster and probably lathe. I would be shopping for an 18 ga that shoots 2".

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 08:25 PM
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Michael, as others mentioned I would definitely go with the 18g brad nailer. This will handle the bulk of any finishing work you might have, and unless you were doing lots of finish work, would likely be all you ever need.

If you were doing enough trim work to warrant it, a 15g or 16g finish nailer would be in order. I prefer the slightly larger size of the 15g myself though do work with lots of guys with both.

If doing some finer finish work like putting small trims on, especially finished ones like in most installations of kitchen cabinetry, a 21g pin (or wire) nailer is really helpful. The pin nailer does not have great holding power as they have no heads, but it holds pieces in place while glue sets and leaves such a small hole it is really hard to detect and requires no filling.

I like Senco air guns. My framing gun, finish nailer, pin nailer and palm nailer are all Senco. They are very well built, and the service here is great. There are lots of other good brands too. My brad nailer is Porter Cable, and my narrow crown stapler & flooring nailer are Bostitch.

JIM

Last edited by BearLeeAlive; 05-14-2010 at 10:25 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 08:30 PM
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Bullnose corners are usually trimmed in a couple of ways. Some trim profiles will have a trim profile available in a half round to make the corner. There is usually no unsightly gap at the top as it follows the contour of the bullnose. The other way is a 3 piece corner. If using a strait run of trim you will have a pie piece to make the transition around the corner. If the corner is a perfect 90 deg (most are not) then you would cut each side of the joint at 22.5. If the corner is a little off of 90 then you will have to measure the degree the corner is at & divide by 4 & that will be the degrees you cut each side of the 2 joints to make the corner.

In my own home I changed every square corner to a bullnose. There was a matching 1/2 round base profile available so my base smoothly follows the wall line with no gaps. I installed crown in every room in the house & they have the 3 piece pie shaped corners.

If the trim job was sloppy then you would see gaps in the corners usually filled with caulk.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 05-14-2010 at 08:33 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 10:45 PM
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I agree that the 18g pin nailer should be all you need for most trim. I have one from Harbor Freight (HF) that works but not well enough for finish work. The hammer leaves rectangular indentations and the depth gauge does not work very well but it was only$20. I imagine that brand name nailers are much better.

On the other hand, my 8 gallon HF compressor works just fine (air is air).

Here two pictures of how the bull nose corners in my house are done. They are mitered at 22.5 deg and there's a short piece in the middle. You will still need to fill the gaps with caulking but after painting it looks very good. One picture shows the stairway trim and the other just a corner of the wall.

No if someone could just tell me how to make one wall a different color ... (i.e. no corners - where does the wall end?).
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Last edited by RJM60; 05-14-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 10:58 PM
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I prefer the mitered corners myself, they always seem to look cleaner than the rounded ones which never fit the profile of the baseboard that good. It is what we do on our projects, as do most other builders I know.

JIM
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 12:04 AM
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Here a few examples of the crown & base in my house I did a couple of years ago. The base has the matching 1/2 rounds to match the profile of the base. I used a combo of 18g brads & 15g finish nailer to install. All corners were glued & nailed.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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great feedback as always guys!

jeez, there are to many guns to choose from. so many companies seem to make them. and in 4 different sizes it seems: 16g, 18g, 21g and 23g. I will look for a 21g for this project.

I am going to have a lot of cutting to do. I found these online:
Bullnose Corners
WMS, Inc :: Catalog :: Bullnose Corner

but I have to wonder how well they'll work when the wall is not quite 90. The craftsmanship these days in cookie-cutter urban homes sure does leave a lot to be desired.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
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great feedback as always guys!

jeez, there are to many guns to choose from. so many companies seem to make them. and in 4 different sizes it seems: 16g, 18g, 21g and 23g. I will look for a 21g for this project.

I am going to have a lot of cutting to do. I found these online:
Bullnose Corners
WMS, Inc :: Catalog :: Bullnose Corner

but I have to wonder how well they'll work when the wall is not quite 90. The craftsmanship these days in cookie-cutter urban homes sure does leave a lot to be desired.
For base I would choose 16g or the 18g. 21g would be to small a fastener to keep base tight over a long period of time. Higher the number skinnier the nail. I prefer to shoot 15g or 16g into the bottom plate of the wall. I will use an 18g for the top of the base to wall as it leaves a smaller nail hole & less to fill where it shows. I use a 23g pin nailer for smaller pre-finished stain grade trim like on kitchen cabinets otherwise for paint grade I use 18g.

I have a few different brands of nail guns. Senco is a dependable brand & parts are available everywhere. I have two 23g pin guns a Max & Harbor freight. The Max was about $300.00 & the Harbor Freight was on sale for 19.95. They both will do the same job but there is a large difference in quality & features between the two. I also have Bostich, Porter Cable, & Dewalt. I mostly use the Senco's & Max. I have a Senco 2 in 1 that shoots 18g brads as well as 1/4" crown staples. This gun did not cost a lot & shoots 2 kinds of fasteners.

For quality tight fitting joints with minimum filling on walls not 90deg it is good practice to measure the miter of the corner & divide that by 2 to find the miter angle to cut for joint. (a corner that measures 87deg & not 90deg will need a miter cut of 43.5deg for each side to fit without gaps in the joint).

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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