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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default T-Track Saw/Router Guide

At bill's (TwoSky) suggestion, I'm starting this thread about building a Track Saw wannabe. Thanks to Bill's posting the videos in the thread "Track Saws", I thought of a few improvements using Peach Tree's miter t-track and mating t-bar.

Bill and I were both concerned about the "wiggle in the track and bar so, I called them. Their item #1032-Miter T-Track and their item #1033-standard miter T-Bar has no play! Yipee.
I odered enough for an 8' track. I'll have enough of the bar left for another jig.....Router?????
Time for more cogitating.

Gene

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Snowflake, AZ

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 08:07 PM
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Default Saw guide

Thanks for the info. I'm planning on a router table and drill press table. Sound like you have a winner!
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
At bill's (TwoSky) suggestion, I'm starting this thread about building a Track Saw wannabe. Thanks to Bill's posting the videos in the thread "Track Saws", I thought of a few improvements using Peach Tree's miter t-track and mating t-bar.

Bill and I were both concerned about the "wiggle in the track and bar so, I called them. Their item #1032-Miter T-Track and their item #1033-standard miter T-Bar has no play! Yipee.
I odered enough for an 8' track. I'll have enough of the bar left for another jig.....Router?????
Time for more cogitating.

Gene
Hi Gene - Be interested to hear how you make out with this. I was looking at ordering their (Peachtree's) 105" Pro Grip to use as an edge guide. Two problems with that idea. One, shipping on that thing is goofy. Two, when using just the guide the saw likes to pull to the right. That's OK of you just go the other direction but that puts the narrow part of the saw shoe on the work, I prefer the other way around.
Curious as to how you plan on joining the mitre track into an 8 ft length and keep it from bowing in the middle. I have an 8 ft saw guide from HD that came in two 4 ft sections but I find I need a way to support it aroud the halfway point or it likes to wiggle on me.

John Schaben

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hi John,
My present guide is like the one you describe from HD. If you attach it to a 1/4" X 8" wide, piece of birch ply (the good stuff), then rip it off you will have a good guide. The saw side will be cut so that you can align it directly on the marked line and the other side will give you plenty of clamp room. My saw is a Skil worm drive so, I cannot clamp on the guide its self. You may be able to, though.
To attach the ply to the guide, I counter sunk holes in the bottom side and drilled up through the metal guide and through a piece of 1/8" hardboard that just fits in the guides shallow trough. I used small bolts and nuts, about 30, to hold it all together. It's been straight for about 15 years.
The worm drive has two handles and I find it easy to keep the saw tight against the guide. You may want to check to see if your blade is square with the guide edge of the saw's shoe/plate. Another thing is that some blades tend to wander due to the set. I'm a big fan of Tenryu blades. They seem to have a good set. So good that I get minimal tear or or splintering on the off cut side.
Even as good as this guide is, I still feel the need to do a final cut at the TS. that's why I'm making the new guide....to save that TS step.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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