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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone use Forrest blades in their saw? Are they worth what they cost?

I have a Delta combination blade in my TS (the one that came with it) and it seems to give a pretty good finish.

I also wonder how good other brands are (Bosch, Delta, Irwin, Freud, CMT, etc).

What kinds of blades do you use? Do you use a combination blade for all your work or do you change the blade depending on what you're cutrting?

I'm thinking I could probably get better cuts using different blades but trial and error gets expensive.

Also, if anyone has used a dado set they like, please post about that too. I just bought a CMT set and it makes much nicer dados than the Harbor Freight set. The HF chippers are just a bit shorter than the outer blades. Could this be intentional, perhaps so you can come back and clean it up with a router?

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-Bob M.

Last edited by RJM60; 07-22-2010 at 08:11 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 08:15 PM
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Yes they are worth it as well as the Freud, and CMT,s, Get a thin kerf and you,ll be amazed at how much quicker you,ll cut through wood, I,d shy away from the others, not that they are bad but the alternatives are much better IMO.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 09:07 PM
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I have just been through an interesting experience:

I bought a Bosch mitre saw 4 years ago. It came with a 10x60 thin kerf blade. It gave me excellent service until last year when I cut a lot of hardwood with it. Until then I used only this blade for all types of cuts and woods.

I thought I would buy another blade and have the Bosch sharpened. There was a deal in one of the US on-line stores, they even threw in a 1/4" spiral router bit.

The blade I bought was also 10x60 but not a thin kerf, ATB teeth. From the start it gave me no end of trouble. It burned wood. It grabbed wood and threw it. After it did this twice I got the message and took both blades to the sharpening shop locally. The old guy there spent an inordinate time trying to analyze the behavior of my new blade. He showed me a number of subtle issues with it, including the poor way the carbide teeth were brazed on, the angles at which they were sharpened and some other features which he said could only be explained if the blade was used in reverse to cut aluminium (it was not, at least not in my shop!)

Anyway, I took the blades home. I re-mounted the now sharpened Bosch (which, incidentally, the man said was a throwaway blade sold with the machine and not expected to re-sharpen many times). The blade cut hardwood like it was butter. The new blade went back into its wrapping and will not see service again.

I learned the following:

1) Where blades are concerned, you *do* get what you pay for.
2) Safety is a factor which I did not consider when buying the new blade.
3) The local expert liked Freud. Not knowing any better I am not going to argue next time.
4) Thin kerf. Always.
5) Those who take woodwork seriously apparently have as many as 40 different blades for the same machine. I am not *that* serious!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 11:02 PM
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From CRQuacks post its more apparent that to find a good blade you must learn the qualities of a good blade not brand names. When you understand the nuances of diffedrent blades you know what your buying. The sharpening pro showed him the different ways teeth can be set and sharpened. Learn what does what.

Why Use a 24T 32T 40T ? I use all three to rip Why? The harder the wood the bigger the fewer teeth. When working with pine I rip with a 40T Hickory I won't touch with anything but a 24T But I luv sneaking a 32T in on Hardwoods for a slick cut IF it cuts quick enough.

Thin kerk blades if inexpensive usually are not well balanced. Wobble in a chop saw can leave a wider kerf grab the stock and leave a less accurate cut. But hey if you adjust and compensate for the variables you can use cheap tools.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 03:28 AM
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I have a saw blade by Tenryu in the table saw when I want quality cuts on expensive plywood. I don't use the thin kerf blades in the cabinet saw as it has plenty of power. The thin kerf blades were originally made with the table top & contractor type saws in mind. These saws usually have 1-3/4hp or less & it's easier to cut with a thin kerf over a full kerf blade. A thin kerf blade works well with these types of saws.

For a dado set I use Freud SD508 Super Dado 8-Inch Stack Dado. Comes with shims also so you can fine tune the width of cut. It will leave a square bottom cut without the little bat ears some leave.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 06:37 AM
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Interesting post. I am using the stock blades my MS and TS came with, and have been reasonably happy. I'm going to get a new blade or two very soon and am interested in the replies. I'll probably be going with Freud due to cost.

I have the 6" Oshlun stacked, and I love it. Very flat bottom.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 07:53 AM
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The last blades I bought were in a twin pack from Ryobi.

I use the 60T blade in my chop say and the 40T blade in the TS.

Once I get more practice with the cross cut sled, I may upgrade.

I don't recall seeing a thin kerf blade for sale in Sydney - not at my local hardware store (Bunnings) anyway.

James
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 07:56 AM
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the forrest and freud blades are excellant choices. i have a freud fusion blade that works great.

but ive also heard lots of people using the freud diablo blade, which is lower in cost, swearing by them.

i will say that i definitely recommend a rip blade or 2. an inexpensive 24 tooth irwin rip blade makes ripping down rough lumber like 2by's easy.

i have the 8 inch freud dado set and think it cant be beat. but if i were buying a dado set now, id get the freud 6 inch set.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 09:29 AM
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I have been using Freud Diablos with good resullts in my Jet contractor saw, but just picked up a Freud Pro crosscut for twenty bucks more than the Diablo for the ressurected Craftsman radial arm. I am impressed by the difference in cut for a minor price difference. I have not been able to bring myself to drop the green on a Forrest WWII, but will probably upgrade the TS to one and use the Diablos for pine only.

-Bill
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 10:08 AM
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the good blade/bad blade/which blade debate is always a good one. There are quite a few really good blades available nowadays. And specific blades for just about any type of cut
you maybe considering. As with just about everything else we do in the shop, doing due diligence prior to making a purchase is time well spent. As mentioned earlier, you do get what you pay for. probably more so in the long run. Most blades will give you a decent cut in the short term, but just dont last very long. The ability to have your blades resharpened is a huge plus. Just make sure you take it to someone who knows what they are doing and does it well.
My primary go to blades are all thin kerf. When doing thicker stock or knarly figured stock, I will get out a TS2000 Ridge Carbide thick kerf. I do believe that the additional blade mass assists in creating a smoother cut in tougher woods. For dado's i've a freud box joint set that does a fantastic job leaving a dead flat bottom, couple of stacked dado sets that are fair to middlin and a 8" Craftsman dial a dado deal that actually does a fine job once you figure out how to dial the damn thing in *L*...
If having only one or two really good blades in your stable I'd say choose wisely. Save em for those passes where the quality of the cut really does matter. Take the time to change your blades out as needed. Spending a 100-150.00 for a blade and then running
3/4" contractor grade plywood into it...well,,,get out the phonebook...

I would also rec. the use of a blade stiffener when using thin kerf blades. Some like em, some don't, some think they make a difference, so don't...I think they do.. especially when used during shallow cuts..

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Last edited by TwoSkies57; 07-23-2010 at 10:13 AM.
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