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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to buy a jointer to straighten some boards (quarter sawn white oak) that are only finished on 2 sides. I know I ca ndo this on my tablesaw, but I did that on the last project (a blanket chest) and it was very time consuming, and left some burn marks which had to be sanded out (more time). The jointer is the perfect solution, but I don't know how much I'll use it after this project. How many of you have jointers, and how much do you use them? I'm checking craigs list daily, and may have found some good deals, but they are all at least 90 minute drive, and some up to 4 hours away. Looking for some input from more experienced wood workers.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:34 PM
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I would like to buy a jointer to straighten some boards (quarter sawn white oak) that are only finished on 2 sides. I know I ca ndo this on my tablesaw, but I did that on the last project (a blanket chest) and it was very time consuming, and left some burn marks which had to be sanded out (more time). The jointer is the perfect solution, but I don't know how much I'll use it after this project. How many of you have jointers, and how much do you use them? I'm checking craigs list daily, and may have found some good deals, but they are all at least 90 minute drive, and some up to 4 hours away. Looking for some input from more experienced wood workers.
My routine for a new project is joint one side and one face, plane the opposite face and square up the other side on the table saw. It was one of my last purchases and has become one of the first used tools on every project. Since I purchase only rough cut lumber, it is vital for dimensioning all my lumber.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 09:31 PM
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Having a jointer really expands on the ability to use rough lumber and that can mean cost savings from buying milled lumber. Plus that old board you left lying around that warped is very easy to salvage with a jointer.
It is much quicker to square wood with a jointer. I started off using the TS too, but now I use my jointer a lot more then I expected I would. If you can find a good deal on a 6" jointer I'd say buy it. A little drive might be worth it in the long run!

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 09:55 PM
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Hi all,

I don't have a jointer at the moment, however I use a thickness planer to get my lumber from rough to finished.

I always thought you only use the jointer on one surface and one edge.

If you try and joint the other edge, how do you make sure it is parallel to the first edge.

If you use the TS then the first edge is referenced off the fence which is parallel to the blade.?????

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 10:21 PM
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James you must have a jig set up for your planer in order to get the wood square and the faces parallel am I correct?. I have seen articles on doing this. I have also seen woodworkers joint the edges in a planer, but one edge must already be flat.
Yes you only square one face and one edge on the jointer. You use the planer to flatten the other face and you can use the TS to square the other edge. All sides will now be parallel to their opposing face/edge and square to each other.
Squaring the edges on the TS requires a jig also. But the fence MUST be parallel to the blade as the jig rides along the fence. (There is another version of this jig that uses the miter slot. But the blade must be parallel to the slot.) Once one edge is square you can run it against the fence to square the other edge. Now they will also be parallel. So the TS is a lot more work because you have to check the setup for parallel and you can't square the faces on a TS.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2010, 08:49 AM
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The jointer is the perfect solution, but I don't know how much I'll use it after this project.
The jointer is a great tool to have in a shop!!! Like others I only use rough cut lumber and have found the jointer to be invaluable. I will say I've slowly been weening away from using a power jointer in favor of hand planes. Keeping in mind that just a couple of good hand planes can run you as much if not more than a good used power jointer.

The value of any tool really depends on the user and his/her plans for the future. How much of an anticipated need will you have, how much you like or dislike the results the tool produces. How much times does it save you? Do the benefits out weight the initial cost? The cost of maintaining the tool factors in and so on and so on.....

I'd say if you have the means to pick one up.. then do so. Especially a used one at a good price. You'll know in short order if you really want to keep it, and if not, you can always turn around and sell it for what you paid or at least at a nominal loss.

A jointer will give ya two good sides to work with... you'll still need to run it through the tablesaw or planer or hand plane to square the board up. If you are getting burn marks on the wood from the table saw, make sure the fence is parallel to the saw blade and ensure that you have a good sharp blade in place. A riving knife or aftermarker splitter after the blade may also help.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2010, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
Hi all,

I don't have a jointer at the moment, however I use a thickness planer to get my lumber from rough to finished.

I always thought you only use the jointer on one surface and one edge.

If you try and joint the other edge, how do you make sure it is parallel to the first edge.

If you use the TS then the first edge is referenced off the fence which is parallel to the blade.?????
Hi James:

When I do my table saw setup, I reference everything to the mitre slot. The blade is as parallel to the mitre slot as I can measure. I stick a straight edge against a good blade next to the arbour and measure from the ends to the mitre slot. This gives me a nice parallel blade and mitre slot. Then, I reference the fence to the mitre slot. Now my fence is perfectly parallel to the blade since both reference to the same point. Now I can size my lumber. By the way, I have a contractors saw with a cast iron top and it's on casters. I find I have to retest my saw periodically just to be sure moving around the shop hasn't thrown something out of whack just a little bit.

So, my operation with scavenged wood is jointer 1 edge, 1 side, planer the other side and saw the other edge. I also have to caution that my jointer has to be "tested" periodically as well. It's on casters too.

Ron

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2010, 04:10 PM
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Porter Cable sells a small 6" Jointer. I have the same Jointer (with the Delta badge) that I received about 3 years ago. It is a great tool to have around, and you will find that you use it far more than you thought you would.

As others have mentioned as well, this will open the door for getting a planer (I just bought one this past Spring) which will give you the ability to buy rough sawn wood at a considerable savings! (Big box stores mark up about 2 to 3 times the cost of rough sawn!)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 11:32 PM
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Does anyone here have any experience with the Rikon 6" jointer model 20-100, if you do could you please provide me with some feedback. I would also like to hear from anyone who has had any experience with the Grizzly Jointer with Parallelogram Beds. Thanks for any input you can provide.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Shopmania View Post
I would like to buy a jointer to straighten some boards (quarter sawn white oak) that are only finished on 2 sides. I know I ca ndo this on my tablesaw, but I did that on the last project (a blanket chest) and it was very time consuming, and left some burn marks which had to be sanded out (more time). The jointer is the perfect solution, but I don't know how much I'll use it after this project. How many of you have jointers, and how much do you use them? I'm checking craigs list daily, and may have found some good deals, but they are all at least 90 minute drive, and some up to 4 hours away. Looking for some input from more experienced wood workers.

Tim,

I missed this point in your post "that are only finished on 2 sides."

If this has been done correctly, you do not need a jointer. The finished 2 side is what the jointer does.

The other operations are for the table saw and planer.

In any case, we would be happy to hear what you decided...

James
Sydney, Australia
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