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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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is a double layer of 3/4 plywood / finished 1 side, good enough for a assembly and general duty workbench top ?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 09:59 AM
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Tony, that should do just fine but I would use MDF for the top.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 10:31 AM
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Tony...welcome to the community...

What you describe is pretty much what I've been using for the last 10 years. And I abuse the snot out of it. Drilling into it, sawing into it. staining, glueing etc. etc. etc..Just be sure to support the top extremely well from below.
For years I've wanted to make a custom work bench, I just can't bring myself to do it. *L* I've pretty much decided when the time comes, to go the same route, making allowances for bench dogs and vises. I think that designing the bench top so that the top piece can be easily replaced would be a good idea.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydaenghan View Post
is a double layer of 3/4 plywood / finished 1 side, good enough for a assembly and general duty workbench top ?

Welcome to the forum, Tony.

That would be OK for a general duty workbench. Just make sure you have a heavy base so that it won't move around when you are working on it. I have a similar top for my bench and it moves when I plane timber.....

Also as advised see if you can make it so that the top is replaceable.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 04:17 AM
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Greetings Tony and welcome to the router forums, we are glad you have joined us. Ditto the above, enjoy.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 10:28 AM
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I agree it will make a great bench top. Mount it on a good base to support it.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 10:34 AM
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Default Consider MDF

Over time you might find that the plywood is too soft. I built a table using mdf for the 'field' and wrapped it with southern yellow pine to protect the edges. I normally keep a sheet of 3 or 4 mil plastic over it to keep glue and/or paint/finish from getting on it.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 11:10 AM
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I had all plywood tops in my shop and last year covered 3 of the work tables with MDF and use those more than the plywood covered ones... I have also covered the plywood ones with polyurethane (3 coats) .

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 12:57 PM
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Perhaps the least expensive work surface is to use a sheet of 3/16" Masonite over your table. When it gets damaged you can flip it or replace it as needed.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydaenghan View Post
is a double layer of 3/4 plywood / finished 1 side, good enough for a assembly and general duty workbench top ?
Tony, with your double 3/4 ply idea... I'd say you're 1/2 the way there to a reeeealy good idea: torsion box design. Torsion boxes will stay dead flat, strongly resist warping/twisting, capable to handling pretty heavy loads, and don't need to cost that much (more).

Recently picked up a metal lathe from Craigslist that weighs in at ~325 - 350 lbs... but it included no stand/bench. What to do?... I'm not a welder and have no ability to cobble together a metal bench. I've made a couple other torsion box benches in the past and they really have held up great, I'll just make this one a lil beefier. This is my goal in SketchUp:



Purchased baltic birch ply yesterday for the skins, and just got back from Lowes (first tried Home Depot but their stock was wet crap ) with some decent 2x4s for the core material. Basically followed the idea from Tom's Torsion Box Workbench for joining the upright sides to the back, but will use 2x3 angle iron to attach the top.

They can be made mobile/levelable with some of these, must have for me in this case...

Good luck in your quest...
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